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I 

IN EXCHANGE 

a / i T r ^ 

dW 5 191? 






FROM CLEVELAND TO THE BRAZILS 



THE UNITED STATES AND BRAZILIAN STEAMSHIP LINE 
-THE PASSENGERS ON THE " SOUTH AMERICA"— WAN- 
DERING REBELS— AT THE WEST INDIES— THE RIVER 
AMAZON-CLIMATE OF BRAZIL-CITY OF PARA-EVE- 
NING IN THE TROPICS— A MIDNIGHT CELEBRATION- 
MORNING IN THE TROPICS-A BRAZILIAN MARKET. 



Para, River Amazon, 
Dec. 17, 1865. 



Editors Herald :— The United States and Brazilian Mail Steamship 
Company's steamer "South America" left New York harbor on the 30th 
of November last, with about sixty passengers, bound for St. Thomas, 
Para, Pernambuco, and Riode Janeiro. The importance of a regular line 
of steamers between the United States and the Brazils, after having been 
advocated to, and urged upon, the respective governments by many 
influential persons in both countries, has at last been recognized, and a 
company has been subsidized to the amount of about $150,000 from each 
government, for a period of ten years. The trip whereof I now speak is 
the third that has been made by this line. Two other steamships, the 
■ l Havana" and the " North America," left New York on their regular 
failing days, the 29th of each of the last two preceding months. This 
steamer, the "South America," is commodious and comfortable in all 
her appointments, with good officers and servants, and well arranged 
staterooms, pleasant awnings, and a large smoking and reading room 
upon the upper deck. The importance of all these concomitants is fully 
realized in a journey of three times the length of that from New York 
to Liverpool, and, during which, so many changes of climate occur. Our 
Captain, Tinklepaugh, who will be remembered as connected with the 
California line so long, is an experienced navigator and a pleasant 
gentleman. 

Perhaps an inside view into many of our staterooms will interest some 
of your readers. We have merchants from the States going to Para, to 






Rio, and to the River Plate, to look up old customers and find new 
ones. We have the Peruvian Minister to Brazil, who has the honor of 
being my next at the dinner table. Also the United States Consuls to St. 
Thomas and Para, and some residents of Rio, gentlemen in whose so- 
ciety I find much pleasure and information. We have an indefinite 
number of German and Portugese gentlemen whose language or business 
I don't pretend to understand. There are one or two of these latter who 
do not seem to think cleanliness u akin to Godliness," and who will never 
do what has been recorded of a certain fastidious Milesian, who sold his 
last shirt to buy soap with which to wash it. We have ladies and fami- 
lies of officers belonging to our South Atlantic Squadron, goiDg to meet 
their husbands. All these gather on deck, daily, and form little coteries 
of their own to play whist, chess, &c, pour passer le temps, through these 
long dreamy tropical days. Mr. Wells, of Wells, Fargo & Co., the 
pioneer expressman, with his family, goes out to Santa Cruz to spend 
the winter. There is one group to which I wish to call your especial 
attention. Here are ten patriarchal looking gentlemen, who, with five 
or six younger ones, go out to Biazil to gain their freedom in a land of 
slavery ; to escape from their old homes in Mississippi and northern 
Alabama, to go to nearly the last place on the globe where they cao hold 
slaves. From what I learn, the number of southerners who have gone 
to Brazil, and who are preparing to go, has been under-estimated at the 
Noith. These people on board seem to belong to that middle class of 
farmers, so common in the South — the men who did most of the fighting 
at the behest of their superiors — who are still beligerent, though confess- 
ing to a lost cause. They are all zealous defenders of slavery. They 
have 

" cherished it long as a holy prize, " 



"Bedewed it with tears, and embalmed it with sighs," 

and are now compelled to confess that their plantation theories of 
human relations are past praying for in the States. Among them is a 
General and one or two other officers, who have earned their titles by 
hard fighting. In the recitals of one of them, however, I am led to sus- 
pect an unpardonable economy of truth. In conversation with one of 
the old patriarchs, who had lived in slavery nearly seventy years, and 
who looked as though he was bound, let us hope, to a country where 
there is but one master, in whose eyes superior and servitors' are alike, I 
expressed my surprise that he should, at his time of life, leave his old 
home with its memories and associations, for a country whose language, 
climate, people and government were entirely new to him. Upon that 



/7-2/#6>y 



8 

he said that he had no objection to living under our government, now 
that the war was over, but he couldn't stay with the " durned white 
sneaks in Alabama." Rendered into English, this means that these 
people, having made themselves extremely obnoxious to their Union 
neighbors, the aforesaid sneaks, by four years of bitter persecution, now 
that the side' of the medal is reversed, were requested to leave the "dig- 
ging" or do worse. They took the hint and here they are. I saw many 
families fleeing from the Kanawha Valley last spring for the same 
reason. 

After crossing the Gulf Stream, we came into the usual north-east 
trades, and, at the end of six days, saw land at St. Thomas, This is one 
of the islands belonging to Denmark — -St. John and St. Croix being the 
other two. St. Thomas has a population of about 15,000, with a pleasant 
little town and fine harbor. It enjoys quite a large trade. We went on 
shore, dined at the ''Hotel de Comercio," mailed our letters home, got 
some fruits and supplies for a trip of 1600 miles to our next stopping 
place, and left late in the evening. Stillman Witt, Esq., spent some days 
here last winter, and made many friends ; several kind inquiries were 
made for him. 

We passed Santa Cruz in the night. The next morning we saw the 
island of Dominica, and Martinique. We were several hours passing the 
latter, and being to the leeward and quite near, we were blessed with a 
calm sea and a fine view. The scenery "on the island was very enchanting; 
the shore is scooped out by divers inlets, and embossed with green pro- 
montories. The sandy beaches in the tranquil bays we passed were sweet- 
ly picturesque, and the sand as smooth as a well-rolled path. A fresh 
luxuriant verdure crowns the summits of the hills. A richness and vari- 
ety of vegetation is seen everj^where, except on the collossal pyramid of 
naked rock, which rises from the ocean on the north, and stand* in bare 
ruggedness, towering over the fruitful scene below. 

We passed the town of St. Pierre, with its white houses and red 
tiles, and its shipping. Farther inland we saw immense sugar cane- 
fields with the smoke of the sugar house or distillery curling up to the 
blue fly. " r 

We passed to the windward of the island of San Lucia, got a' glimpse 
of Barbadoes, and then saw no more land North of the Equator, but 
steered almost due South for the mouth of the Amazon. On the 13th of 
December we were off the coast of Cayenne, in Gluiana. We saw no land, 
but from the shoalness of the water, and its discoloration from the 
river Orinoco, we could not be very far to the windward. Rain clouds 
intervened, and the tropical showers pelted down the white caps of the 



ccean into something like submission. We crossed the equator on the 
15th, at 11 P. M. The next day!we came in sight of "Salinas," when we 
took a pilot, and went up the river Amazon. 

Who, in his youthful days, from school and story books has not heard 
of the mightiest river in the world ? The mystery of the female War- 
riors, with their Amazonian Queen, remain such, I have no doubt 
with many a grown-up chili at this day. I had intended, iflsaw the 
Queen, to get a lock of her hair for Capt. David Price. 

Here there are too distinctive seasons of the year, the wet and the dry. 
The wet, or rainy season, commencing the latter part of December and 
continuing until July, raining,I am informed, more or less every day. The 
air is sultry aad oppressive, with light, variable winds, and most awful 
thunder. It generally begins to rain about eleven o'clock in the forenoon 
and continues until nine or ten at night. From that time, and in the 
early morning, the weather is fine. Just now we are nearly at the end of 
the dry or windy season, the wind blowing from the Northeast during 
the day, with a light breeze in the evening. Lightning is frequent in the 
horizon at night. The sun during the day is very oppressive, thermome- 
ter averaging 84° in the shade. The country along the river is low and 
covered with magnificent forests. The entire province of Para is said to 
be an almost unbroken forest, with undergrowth of such density as to 
render a passage utterly impossible, except to the footpaths of the na- 
tives. The country, however, is said to be healthy, although intermit- 
tent fevers or agues sometimes attack new comers, and the people up the 
river, who are employed in gathering sarsaparilla, frequently die of it. 

The city of Para is about 100 miles above the mouth of the Amazon, 
in 1 deg. 30 min. S. latitude. It has about 25,000 inhabitants. Although 
so nearly under the Equator, the city is said to be healthy. There is 
probably no place that enjoys a greater uniformity of temperature, and 
where there is so slight a variation in the barometer from day to day. 

The river opposite is about nine miles wide, with many islands. The 
appearance of the city, as we see it from a long way down the river, 
corresponds to most tropical cities, with its white houses and red tiled 
roofs. The triple towers of the huge Cathedral loom up above all, and 
as we approach nearer, we see many other churches, the custom house, 
palace, arsenal,. forts, &c We cast our anchor in the stream, Saturday 
afternoon, and, taking a small boat, we landed and stopped over night at 
the Hotel d'ltalia. 

The city fronts on the river, but in its rear there is a leng shaded walk 
called the Estrada des Mangabeiras, from the trees of that name with 
which it is densely shaded, Last night was brilliapt with the star light, the 



Southern cross stood almost in the zenith. A long walk I took had more 
loveliness in it than my imagination had ever pictured before. The dark 
luxuriant foliage, the waving plumes of numerous palm trees, the fragrance 
of the opening blossoms of many fruit trees and flowers, the blandness 
of the evening air in contrast with the noon-day sun, are all beyond the 
power of my unpracticed pen to describe. I walked through many of the 
principal streets and squares of the city. They are well lighted with gas. 
There was music and dancing at many of the Casinos, and the balconies of 
the houses were filled with both sexes enjoying the evening. Soon after 
midnight we were awakened by a feu dejoie of music, vivas, rockets, bells*, 
Roman candles and bonfires. My companion, knowing I was posted 
about the customs, wanted to know "what the matter was." I told him, 
in confidence, that it was all in honor of the god of "fire and water." 
That he would see the procession during the day, marshalled by an 
ex-member of the government, named Palmer, so called from a certain 
species of tall palm of superior quality, and bearing a hard nut, and 
that his procession would consist of 200 virgins, (more or less,) a band of 
music, a lot of military, and several little angels with paste board wings, 
like I had seen in Mexico. He seemed satisfied with this and went to 
sleep again. We rose early and found it was "St. Lazarus' day in the 
morning." All this holy clatter was in honor of the anniversary of that 
saint. The calender is chock full of saints'Idays. I am told that about 
one quarter of the year is taken up with them, and they are celebrated 
with more or less fervor in accordance with their reputation, and the power 
they have for performing miraculous cures. 

I pluDged into the woods that skirt the city in the rear, just at sunrise. 
Around were stately palms and crowds of mangoes, and every where the 
broad leafed banana. Bays of green and gold flash from the breasts of 
hummingbirds; the linnets, or something like them, are hopping from the 
tamarind tree to the ground again, and again. Reader, it is a "morning 
in the tropics. " 

After breakfast I took a stroll down to the river. Along its mar- 
gin great numbers of the lower class may be seen bathing, in puris 
naturalibus — no ceremonies are observed. 

At the principal landing, near the square and market, there is a crowd 
of canoes, with cargoes of Brazil nuts, cacao, sarsaparilla, cinnamon, 
tapioca, balsam of copaiba in pots, and fish and fruit of all descriptions. 
Here are also parrots, macaws, and a variety of gorgeously plumaged 
birds, and monkeys of all sizes, not so gorgeous. The appearance of 
tjie people is peculiar. The native Indians may be seen both in pure 



blood and in every possible degree of intermixture with the whifes and 
blacks. They occupy every station in society, as merchant, soldier, priest, 
sailor, or slave. Ther3 is a line of steamers belonging to a Brazilian com- 
pany that leaves twice a month for the upper Amazon and some of its 
tributaries, a distance of 3,600 miles, nearly as far as from here to Cleve- 
land. I should like that trip. Professor Agassiz is up there now, some- 
where. This government furnished him with a steamer. His report 
will enlighten the world and attract tourists and emigrants. This city 
of Para will in time be to the great river what Buenos Ayres is to the 
Plate, and New Orleans to the Mississippi. 

You will hear from me from Pernambuco, 1,200 miles further south, 
if I have anything to say. H. S. g. 



No. 2. 

ALONG THE BRAZILIAN COAST— SUNSET IN THE TROPICS 
PERNAMBUCO-THE IRON-CLAD SQUADRON-A BRA- 
ZILIAN TOWN AND ITS BUSINESS-BRAZILIAN RESI- 
DENCES—THE MONITOR MONADNOCK. 

Pernambuco, Brazil, Dec. 22, 1865. 
Eds. Herald : We left Para Sunday noon, December 17th, and 
steamed down the vast river. At its mouth lies the island of Marajo, as 
large as some of our smaller States. Here are raised immense numbers 
of cattle. I am informed that the whole island is devoted to that busi- 
ness. The transition from the Amazon to the Ocean was hardly noticed, 
so wide is the river at its mouth. We steered South by East to Cape 
Rcque, the point that juts out farthest to the eastward of any on the 
coast of Brazil, and distant about 1000 miles from the Amazon. This 
point we passed during the Evening of the 21st, and then, changing our 
course, ran South by West 200 miles farther, to Pernambuco. During 
the five days we were coming from Para to this place, we sailed over calm 
seas, beneath a glorious sky, with the air at summer heat, though with 
more or less sea breeze. The thermometer averaged 79 deg. on beard. 
We had a few rain showers, and when they came up, or left us, nature's 
kaleidescope seemed to have quicker changes than I ever saw before. 
The nights were as mild as evenings in heaven. Among the passengers 
there is fortupately a varied supply of reading matter, and we get through 



the day in that way — in conversing — (there is always an eternal clatter 
among the Portuguese passengers) in playing chess — in watching the sun- 
sets — the foreign vessels that are now and then in sight, and the catama- 
rans, or fishing rafts, with their broad lateen sails, skimming over and un- 
der the waves all around us in the mornings. Whenever a light breeze 
springs up in the night the sea looks like a calico pattern, with its phos- 
phorescent white caps, like dots upon the black ground of the Ocean. 

Speaking of Natures drop-scenes, the sunsets, there are here panoramic 
paintings which no pen or pencil can portray. The zenith of blue dimin- 
ishes in tone down one third of the vault, and tMn blends into emerald, 
which descends through a straw tint into brilliant white as it approaches 
the horizon. Sometimes, pbrt'ons of the upper and lower boundaries of 
the sun were hidden by clou a of a deep chocolate hue, edged with 
silver, lying like broad belts along the horizon — and then, behind, stitch- 
ing far upwards towards the zeu*th, like a fan, were streaks of violet, with 
the upper edges of a rich fawn color. If you want to see all of this, come 
yourself some fine evening, you will agree with me, I know, that the 
old solar scene-painter can get up finer pictures here than any where on 
the globe. The twilight is hardly known as such. We are notyetdirectly 
under the sun as he is running the southern line of the elliptic, aud conse- 
quently we are not in the predicament of the man who lost his shadow, 
but we are gradually approaching it. The silver "sheen" you read of, 
seems to glisten more and more as we go southward. 

Both day and night I have great pleasure in watching the ocean. The 
old sayings, "fickle as the waves," and "unstable as water," seem para- 
doxical tome when I look out upon its wide expanse, and think that itis 
now what it was when its waves laved the shores of a lifeless world. 

As I look upwards at night to the myriads of orbs that shine in such 
radiance, I cannot help thinking how much more expansive must be the 
views at sea in the larger planets. In treading the deck some of these 
grand nights, it is impossible not to feel a relationship between us and 
the inhabitants of the worlds in sight, and to believe tlat, at this very 
moment, travelers from one clime to another are crossing the oceans 
there. Quien sabef. 

At noon, on the 22d, we saw the monastery on the high point of Olinda, 
one of the suburbs of Pernambuco, and soon came in sight of the city 
itself. A portion of the Pacific Squadron now on its way around through 
the straits of Magellan, comprising the Yanderbilt, the Tuscarora, the 
Powhattan, and the double turretted monitor, Monainock, had arrived 
in port an hour or two in. advance, and the usual salutes from the forts 



8 

on shore were flashing over the waters as we passed by them. We were 
immediately visited by several officers from the Squadron, anxious for 
papers and letters from home. Among them was Commodore Rogers, 
Capt. Ridgely, of the Powhattan, and Lieut. Painter, paymaster of the 
fleet. The latter is brother to John Painter, Esq TheJLieutenant and 
myself took boat and dined at the Hotel d' l'Europe, and took a view of 
the city, both by day and gas light. 

The City of Pernambuco is in 8 deg., 5 min. S. latitude, and with the 
exception of Bahia and Rio de Janeiro, is the most important sea port of 
Brazil. It has about 120,000 inhabitants. Its harbor is formed by a sin- 
gular coral reef, which extends, I am informed, a long distance on the 
coast. The temperature here is commonly high, more especially during the 
night, and until nine or ten in the morning. Then the sea breezes begin 
to rise by degrees, which refresh the atmosphere until sunset. Notwith- 
standing the heat, the climate is said to be very healthy. The city seems 
to consist of three divisions, named Recife, San Antonio and Boa Vista. 
The two first are connected by a splendid iron bridge, which was brought 
from England. The carriage ways across the bridge are paved with 
blocks of granite, and the foot ways with large square brick. The iron 
gas posts and arches are quite ornamental. In general the town seems 
to be well built. I noticed many lofty white-washed houses with red 
tiles and plenty of verandahs and windows to admit the cool breezes. I 
am told that for miles in every direction towards the interior there are 
comfortable villas, some very extensive, and constructed with consider- 
able taste . It has all the appearance of being a very busy and thriving 
town. I understand the merchants have made an immense deal of money 
the past year or two, principally in cotton, which is grown in the interior, 
and which comes in, sometimes, in larger quantities than there is trans- 
portation to take it away. There are a hundred or more vessels in port, 
mostly foreign. 

The city has a peculiar appearanee in approaching it from the sea, the 
land being very low, so that seen from a distance, the buildings seem to 
stand out of the water. The lofty buildings are seen first, then the ship- 
ping, after which the general features of a large town become Visible. 
Most of the foreign firms are located in the Recife division, which is 
that nearest the sea. In the division of San Antonio wc found most of 
the shop keepers, among them some very fine siores, with goods of Eng- 
lish and French manufacture. We visited quite a large book store, 
where we saw many works with London imprints, and pictures and en- 
gravings decidedly French. In this division are large houses and broad 



streets well lighted with gas ; here are also situated the Governor's resi- 
dence, the Treasury, the City Hall, and several Convents. I noticed 
many squares which presented a gay and lively appearance. The division 
of Boa Yista contains many broad and handsome streets, but in other 
parts the buildings are very bad, and built in an irregular and straggling 
manner. In the Eecife division there are many houses fronting the waters, 
six stories high. Generally the first, or ground floor, is occupied by male 
servants at night, the second furnishes apartments for lodging rooms, 
the third and forth for counting rooms, offices, &c, the fifth for dining 
and the sixth for kitchen. The only reason for having a kitchen in the 
attic was to favor the upward tendency of smoke and effluvia produced by 
cooking. Water and other articles are carried up on the heads of negro 
servants. 

The town of Olinda, three miles up the coast, and on the bay, is situ- 
ated on a hill on whose summit is a monastery, which maybe seen a great 
distance off to seaward. Many' of the merchants of Pernambuco have 
seats here. The houses are beautiful white buildings with handsome 
gardens. From the monastery, the view is one that every stranger 
should sec. The broad bay is seen stretching with regular incurvation 
of the coast, away to the south, thirty miles to the Cape St. Augustinho- 
Far out is the green ocean, with its waves crested with foam. ^You gaze 
over the city, proud in her wealth and commerce, and below and around 
a splendid vegetation, where every leaf seems burnished by the radiance 
of a tropical sun, yet waving in a constant breeze. In looking at Olinda 
one is at a loss whether to admire most the whitened houses and massive 
temples, or the luxuriant manguiras, lofty palms, cocoanut and other trees 
of beautiful foliage, with which these edifices seem to be nearly buried. 

The " raft with two cheese boxes" called the "Monadnock," excites 
much curiosity here. Her name recalls to my mind pleasant reminisences 
of a^ visit made to Mount Monadnock (Indian, u Watch Tower,") in New- 
Hampshire, last summer. This is the first Monitor that has arrived at 
this port, and we were not surprised to find the dock lined with spectators. 
She was visited by large numbers of the people during the day. Her 
officers inform me that she sails splendidly in all kinds of weather, and 
in one gale they experienced on their way out, she stood it better 
than her wooden companions. We shall see the Yanderbilt, belonging 
to thesaTne squadron, at Bahia, 375 miles south, and our next stopping 
place. The fleet will rendezvous at Rio de Janeiro in about two weeks, 
when I hope to renew my acquaintance with sone of the officers and also 
to write you about "that which I shall see," 

H.S,S. 



10 

No. S. 

BAHIA-AN UP-HILL TOUR-PECULIAR MODE OF CON- 
VEYANCE-THE PUBLIC GARDENS-A SPLENDID VIEW 
-BAHIA CATHEDRAL-CHRISTMAS ON THE OCEAN- 
BRAZILIAN COAST SCENE— ENTERING RIO DEXiNEIRO. 

Rio de Janeiro, Dec. 27, 1865. 

We left the city of Pernambuco about midnight of the 22d, and ar- 
rived at San Salvador, or Bahia de Todos Santos (Bay of all the Saints), 
on Sunday, the day before Christmas. We had pleasant weather. 
The days were quite hot, but the nights were delightful. With the 
Southern Cross above us, the brilliant phosphorescent wave crests below 
and around, and the cool sea breezes everywhere, we floated on towards 
this Christmas eve. As we were approaching the entrance to the harbor, 
we saw a large whale pitching along not far from the stern of our ship. 
They are said to frequent this port for some peculiar food which abounds 
in its waters, and were formerly caught in large numbers. It is said 
that the right to these fisheries at one time brought the Government 
$30,000 annually. As we entered the immense bay, large enough for all 
the fleets in the world, we saw the outline of the white domes and towers 
of the second city of the Empire, and a large number of vessels of all 
nations at anchor. Our national flag was splendidly represented by the 
United States war vessel Vanderbilt, now on its way to the Pacific via 
the Straits of Magellan. 

The city of Bahia is not only next to Rio de Janeiro in importance but 
also in the beauty of its appearance. It is a very ancient place compared 
with most others in the New World, having been founded in 1535. It is 
in 13 deg-, South latitude. It is built on the declivity of a very high and 
steep hill fronting the bay, about six miles in extent, and containing 
130,000 inhabitants. It consists of an upper and a lower town. A party 
of us landed by a small boat in the latter, near the Custom House. This 
part of the town consists, principally, of one street, nearly four miles long, 
in which are located the shops and warehouses. Some of the latter are of 
immense size. Around the landing place are hundreds of canoes loaded 
with fruit and produce. Here were some of the finest pine apples and 
oranges I had yet seen. The several streets that curve upwards to the 
Cidade Alto, that portion of the city on the bluffs above, are all well 
paved, and thickly lined with tall houses, but are so steep that no wheel 
carriages are used. All drayage in the lower town is done on the backs 
of negroes, who lay around in the sun, coiled up like so many black 
shakes, while waiting for a job. Li^e the coffee carriers of Ilio, they 



11 

chant their peculiar measure as they go. It is a very difficult task for a 
white person to ascend to the upper town under the hot sun. No omnibus 
or carriage can be found to accommodate him, but there are large num- 
bers of sedan chairs, or palanquins, called here Cadelras, always ready. 
They consist of an arm chair with a cane seat, protected from the heat 
and rain by a circular canopy, covering the whole of it, and surmounted 
at the top with an oval crest of fanciful design. The canopy is made of 
damask, with extravagantly brilliant figures on it, and opens on both sides. 
The two bearers elevate their load and march up hill. The charge is 
quite moderate. It is as necessary for familes to keep a cadeira or two, 
and negroes to bear them, as it is to keep carriages and horses else- 
where. Imagine a party of eight "Americanos del Norte," proceeding 
up the long, steep ascent, and through the streets of the upper city in 
single file, seated in oriental style, and toted by negroes, on a hot Sunday 
afternoon in December. 

Our cavalcade, or more properly niggercade, was finally halted on one 
of the Broadways of the upper city, at the Hotel del' Univers, opposite 
a square whereon stands a church, and next to it a large building which I 
was informed was the principle theatre of the place. After an excellent 
dinner, we again mounted our palanquins, and went forth to see some por- 
tions of the city. Our way to the Gardens, or Passeio Publico, was through 
several fine streets well built up, along which were many pedestrians of 
both sexes and all ages, and many people who, like ourselves, preferred the 
sedan chair to walking in the sun. The livery of the carriers, and 
the gorgeousness of curtaining and ornaments, indicate the rank 
and wealth of the family. At the tall arched entrance to the 
Passeio we alighted, and immediately found ourselves under the 
dense shades of the mangueiras, the lime trees, the bread fruit, the ca- 
shew, and numerous other trees of tropical growth. The air was filled 
with songs of birds of all kinds. These are kept in large cages, thirty 
or forty different varieties in one cage, like Barnum's "happy family." 
From the keeper of one of these I obtained the names of a number, 
but on looking over the catalogue, I am satisfied it would tire you as 
much to read, as it would me to transcribe them. The mango fruit grows 
to a large size here, and some of the trees bear it within two feet of the 
ground. The natives eat it, but the taste for it is an acquired one. This 
public promenade of Bahia is located on the boldest and most command- 
ing height of the whole town, and those who located it — call them hea- 
then if you will — were so far civilized, that this principal park has two 
splendid water fronts, one of its sides, from its high parapet, overlooking 
the Ocean, and the other the Bay, while an iron'railing protects the 



12 

visitor from the precipice below. The views from this eminence were 
truly magnificent. The long rows of whitened buildiDgs, interspersed 
with splendid foliage, curving away downward from the heights to the 
waters edge, the broad blue sea on the east, and, to the south-west, the 
wide expanse of the bay, with its circling mountains, and palm crested 
islands, made up a picture that I shall not soon forget. On our return, 
we stopped at the Old Cathedral to vespers. This is an immense edifice, 
superior, I understand, to any church in Brazil. Near the church is the 
President's Palace, the Archepiscopal Palace, for this is the spiritual 
capital of the Empire, a seminary, a military hospital, and other public 
buildings. It is said that the stonework for some of these were cut, 
finished and numbered in Europe, and imported ready for erection. 

On entering the Cathedral we were quite impressed with its vastness 
and its excess of ornamentation, lighted up with numberless tall wax 
candles. The priests were intoning the service to the kneeling congre- 
gation, which was composed almost entirely of women. As we advanced 
we were informed that if we went beyond a certain line, we must kneel 
with the rest. We preferred to stand outside the sacred line. Here we 
noticed the brilliantly lighted altars, the curiously carved pillars, and 
ceilings covered over with gilding, and the wealth, beauty and fashion 
of the Bahians, as represented by the worshipers. The darkly shaded 
cheek, and darker and flashing eyes of the Brazilian belles, as shown off 
by the rich gossamer veil, or the graceful folds of the mantilla, attracted, 
I am afraid, the attention of some of our party away from the liiany and 
tha prayers. 

We shipped our anchor during the night and ran out into the ocean. 
Christmas day, with its hallowed memories, its thoughts of home and 
friends, was ushered in by a brilliant sunshine and a quiet sea. The usual 
compliments were passed among the passengers at the breakfast table, 
and then we scattered, to read, talk or write, sometimes to think, " as we 
sailed." Within two days of our destination, and far away from the 
frosty robes, whistling winds and drifting snows of your northern winters, 
we congratulated ourselves on the pleasant passage of nearly six thou- 
sand miles, and rendered thanks to the Great Giver of mercies for con- 
tinued good health and our present safety. Early in the morning of the 
27th, we saw Cape Frio, the north-eastern point of land that is always 
seen about thirty milen at sea in fair weather, in approaching Rio from 
this direction. The light on its top, looks, at night, like a distant star. 
On approaching it nearer, it exhibits two distinct summits, one, several 
hundred feet higher than the other. Beyond this point the inlets along 
the coast are bordered by lofty masses of granite, irregularly covered with 



13 

trees. Then we come in sight of the Corcovado, the Gabia, Two Brothers, 
and other mountains of singular forms, uncouth names, and stupendous 
altitude, that surround the Bay of Rio de Janerio. Then comes the 
Sugar Loaf, a much lower rock, of conical shape, with its steepest side 
to the west. Close at the foot of this mountain lies the passage into the 
bay. On both sides, as we enter, are solid masses of granite, skirted 
with forts. 

We are just now engaged in packing our baggage, gathering the scat- 
tered books and other articles loaned each other, and collecting the 
odds and ends generally, of the loug "bobbin" of a four week's sea voyage. 
This admonishes me that T must get this letter out of sight from the 
expected Custom House omVers, who are now coming off. However, 
they tax everything by the p and, and this light reading won't amount 
to much. H. S. S. 



No. 4. 

THE BAY OF RIO DE JANEIRO-THE CITY ARRANGEMENT 
OF STREETS-A COSTLY RESIDENCE-MAGNIFICENT 
VIEYVS-AN EVENING SCENE-THE BRAZILIAN CLI- 
MATE—OFF FOR EUROPE. 

Rio de Janeiro, Jan. 1, 1866. 
We entered this harbor between the Sugar Loaf Mountain and the fort 
of Santa Cruz, on the afternoon of the 27th of December. All the writers 
who have attempted a description of this Bay, have failed in giving a 
correct idea of its extent and beauty. Fletcher says it can't be described ; 
that the Bay of Naples, and others of noted grandeur, do not compare 
with it. Of course I shall t "not attempt it. My impressions, as we came 
in, and ever since, were singularly vivid, and, I think, appreciative, but 
unfortunately I haven't the language at hand. Like the boy in the 
theatre when the finale of the tragedy was approaching, I threw away 
the peanuts and every other thought and consideration, and looked on. 
My hotel is located on the Flamingo Bay, where, from my open windows, 
I renew my acquaintance with my first impressions day and night. The 



14 

city is in the 23d° South latitude, and contains about 400,000 inhabitants. 
It lies almost immediately to the left, as you enter the harbor, and as we 
passed up along its front to our anchorage, we saw the Bays of Suzano, 
Bota-fogo, Flamingo, Pedro 1st, the G-loria, De Lapis, and San Luzia. 
These are all incurvtions (within the harbor), upon the shores on which 
the city lies. This frontage extends along some six miles, and is thickly 
built upon. The mountains in the center and rear of the citp, seem to 
be holding high carnival, their old heads pointing in every direction. 
First, as you enter, is the Corcovado mountain, then the Carioca, Santo 
Bodrigues and Tejuoa. These form the back ground, then Pasmado, 
de G-loria, San Teresa, Castello, San Antonio, Senado, St. Benito, de 
Conceicao, Providencia, Livermento, Nheco, Mora de Santa Diego, de 
Paulos Mattos, da Formega, and de Neves. Upon these last sixteen 
named hills, (more than Borne ever had,) and their ravines, lies the city. 
The prominent points on the top of these elevations are generally occupied 
by Convents and Churches, of which there are about forty in the city. 
Around about the Customhouse, and the long narrow streets of the busi- 
ness parts of the city, all the room is occupied with buildings, but in 
every direction, just outside, every residence has a large garden and 
grounds attached. These private gardens, with the two public resorts, 
called the Passeio Publico, and the Jardin Botanico, are filled with im- 
mense varieties of tropical fruit trees, flowers, palms and mangoes, in 
such variety of splendor that it fairly makes the senses ache to see and 
smell them. The shores of the bay, on the opposite side, are covered 
with rich verdure; a number of villages, plantations of all sorts and sizes, 
and country seats of elegant appearance, surrounded with trees, are 
visible. Many islands, also inhabited and wooded, diversify the sur- 
face of this inland sea. It seems to me there could not be a more de- 
lightful residence on the globe than on one of these. In the city proper, 
especially in the old part, the streets are mostly straight, but narrow and 
dirty. They are pretty generally furnished with side walks without curb 
stones, with a water course or gutter in the centre, which is the usual 
receptacle of sweepings from the houses. The omnibuses and one horse 
chaises, or tilburies, with which the city abounds, as well as other vehi- 
cles, are obliged to go up one street and down another, each corner of a 
street having a hand painted on it, indicating the direction. The streets 
leading out of the city, however, are wide, well built up, and paved. 

I am stopping at the Hotel d'Estrangeros, three miles from the Cus- 
tom House and Palace Square, and on the direct route to Botafogo Bay 
and the Botanical Gardens. There are splendid residences about here. 



15 

One, not yet finished, already costing a million and a half dollars, is being 
built of marble from Italy. It belongs to a large coffee planter of the 
interior. 

There are two railroads into the country, the Mona road to Petropolis, 
and the Dom Pedro 2d road, to nowheres, about eighty miles. This is 
named after the present Emperor. They have just completed a tunnel, a 
mile and a half long, by the aid of American engineering. I can't 
tell you much about the interior until 1 see it. Yesterday I went out 
to Tejuca, about nine miles. This was accomplished on a railroad, which 
was formerly a horse or mule road, but is now run with dummy engines 
built in England. Each engine takes a large two story car holding a 
hundred passengers, and another car for the second or lowest class of the 
shoeless and undressed. Many of your readers will recollect Bennets, 
where I dined, and Mr. G-inty's beautiful place that I visited. We 
passed in sight of the Emperor's palace at San Christavao. The flag was 
flying, indicating that he was at home. He has lately been off to the 
war with Paraguay. From the Heights of Tejuca there is a fine view of 
the city and bay. The mildness of the climate, which is here a perpetual 
spring, renders artificial heat unnecessary, and there are no fire places, 
except in the kitchens, and consequently very few chimneys. This 
gives, to a northerner, a very queer appearance to the city, a sort of bald 
or truncated look. 

This is by far the largest mart for the export of Coffee in the world. 
Besides this important article, the exports consist of sugar, rum, ship 
timber and other valuable woods, hides, tallow, indigo, and the more 
precious articles of gold, silver, diamonds, topazes, amethysts, tourma- 
lines, chrysoberyls, aqua marinas, etc. 

Late in the day, I took a ride along the aqueduct which conveys water 
to the city from the Corcovado mountains. Here is a view, or a series of 
views, the most magnificent that can be conceived. The city is before 
and underneath you, on one side every variety of hill and dale, covered 
with the most luxurious vegetation, and studded at intervals with the 
beautiful country residences of the merchants. Beyond, the range of 
mountains tower towards the sky. The entrance to the harbor is dis- 
tinctly marked by the'Sugar Loaf hill ; the white fortifications are perch- 
ed upon the heights around. The men of war just hauling down their 
colors, the music of their bands as they salute the departing day, wafted 
towards you by the last faint puffs of the sea breeze. All these objects, 
softened by the distance, and illuminated by the glowing tints of the set- 
ting sun, complete a picture which cannot be excelled- It is most in- 



16 

terestiDg, at the close of the day, to watch the plants folding up their 
leaves, and drooping their heads, as if wearied by the heat of the sun. I 
do not remember ever having noticed the sleep of plants so distinctly as 
here. The change in the aspect of the leaves is remarkable. The 
acacias were completely shut up, which is said to increase the fragrance 
of the flowers. The cassias were folding and reclining. The liquorice 
pea was, indeed, asleep, and the whole effect of the garden was different 
from that when I passed up, when the sun was upon it. 

I have already seen enough to warrant my belief in the statement that 
Brazil enjoys one of the finest climates on the globe. Its great charac- 
teristic, as compared with other countries, is the general equability of its 
climate, which constitutes, in fact, the chief element of its salubrity. 
Even in the height of summer the heat is rarely found oppressive to the 
North American, and the nights are almost invariably serene and beau- 
tiful. In the Northern and Central Provinces, I understand, there is 
not much dew, so that the delightful coolness of a tropical moonlight 
maybe enjoyed undisturbed by visions of fever and malaria. lam told, 
by an European sojourner, that years can never entirely efface from his 
recollection the buoyancy of spirit, unclouded mind, and exquisite ap- 
preciation of mere animal existence, which marked the first years of his 
residence in Brazil. These vivid sensations may be in part determined 
by the novelty and splendor of a new world, its brilliant skies, perpetual 
verdure, and the variety, luxuriance and beauty of its vegetable life. 
The medal unfortunately has its reverse. This favorable condition of 
the animal economy proves, as in vegetable life, under similar circum- 
stances, but of limited duration, and from seven to ten years, lam told, 
may be set down as the average period at which a tropical residence begins 
to affect a Northern constitution to such an extent as to injure the health, 
the precise epoch being determined, of course, by the constitution, oc- 
cupation and habits of the individual ; which three items, I may add, go 
far towards making up any individual statistics of longevity, no matter 
where on the globe he may live. But this country, I think, may be wel} 
designated the Italy of the New World, and I am sorry I cannot tell you 
more about it. It is impossible, as you are aware, to give, within the 
limits of a gossipping newspaper letter, all one's ideas, impressions and 
minute information concerning a large city and Empire. 

This fact impresses me strongly when I look over a large amount of 
notes already taken, and which I cannot use for want of time and your 
space. Therefore I must now close these imperfect sketches of a journey 
from Cleveland to the land of the Southern Cross, the Cocoa and the 



17 



Palm. My business requires me to go home by the way of Europe. I 
shall leave the French steamer at Lisbon, and go through Portugal to 
Madrid, thence to Paris and London. I may find leisure during the 
trip to tell you something about it. I am indebted to Mr. Fletcher's 
book for some information, to many people at the place I have stopped 
for kind civilities, and to your readers for their patience. 

H. S.S. 



No. 5. 



SOOTH AMERICA TO EUROPE 



RIO DE JANEIRO— PICTURESQUE FEATURES— PUP>LIC 
CONVEYANCES— POLICE REGULATIONS— BRAZILIAN 
WOMEN— MODE OF SHOPPING— FEATHER FLOWERS— 
A BRAZILIAN RAILROAD— A BIG TUNNEL. 



Rio de Janeiro, Jan. 9, 1866. 

We had a fellow passenger on the "South America," coming out, who 
had the infelicity of reading one of my former letters to you, in manu- 
script, and, a regular old Fadladeen in criticism, he cautioned me not to 
use the personal pronoun too much. I may possibly offend good taste, in 
your opinion, in this respect, but the old adage says, "He who runs may 
write to those who run, to read," and, as I propose to let nothing go unseen 
for the lack'of being looked after personally, I don't see how I can help it 
in writing this veritable history of my journey. After all, there are men 
in the world to write about, as well as hemispheres, empires and 
cities. Scenery, without people, is pretty much what a panorama is com- 
pared to a play. ^ 

On the afternoon of our arrival at Rio, after committing our baggage 
to the tender mercies of the custom-house officers, we took a launch for 
the Largo dc Paco, (Palace Square). Here the boatman brought v.» 



18 

safely, charged us mercifully, and bade us " go with God." The hack- 
men crowded around us pretty much as they do in civilized countries, 
and we made our way into one of their vehicles. The Hotel do los Es- 
trangeros is located about three miles from the landing, on the Ponte 
de Catette, Flamingo Bay. The street of Botafogo commences here, and 
extends about a mile further. The streets of the city, along the whole 
four miles to the latter place, are lined with shops, dwellings, and 
churches, with mazes of curved cross streets, also densely populated. 
The Hotel is quite an extensive affair, with long gardens extending back 
to the shores of the bay. The surfjrolls up on the beach, affording 
us a pleasantbath every morning, and a lulling music at night. We chose 
a room on the third floor, where, from the windows, never closed, we look 
out on such an extensive and varied view that I am never tired of it. The 
city, with its snow white buildings, more beautiful from far than near, 
covering the plains and hill sides, looks splendidly in the evening light. 
The Sugar Loaf Mountain, at the entrance to the bay at our right, the 
beautiful bay with the forts on the heights opposite, the distant and dim 
outline of the Organ Mountains, as seen when the early morning is just 
bursting into perfect sunlight, make a scene for the memory as well as 
for the eye. 

There are a large number of omnibuses running in all directions to and 
from the centre of the city. These carry only a certain number, which 
number is painted on the outside of each vehicle. The conductor is 
subject to a penalty if more are admitted, The omnibuses are rough 
vehicles, drawn by four mules, and driven at a tremendous pace in a 
galloping run, over stone pavements, gutter ways, and any obstacle. If 
the reader can consider himself, cceteris paribus, on the inside of a kettle, 
and that kettle tied to a frightened dog's tail, he can have an idea of 
what riding in one of these concerns feels like. For this you pay about 
twenty cents. Another public vehicle is very much in use here, called a 
caleso, like the Quebec caleche, or English tilbury. It is a chaise top on 
a pair of wheels, whose motive power is a small mule with immense har- 
ness. This conveys one passenger only, at a charge of one milreis (about 
54 cents) from our hotel into the city. 

The police here is a semi-military institution, but, at the present time, 
most of the force is absent, having been sent off to the war with Paraguay 
last April. The city is now governed by the national guard, made up 
principally from the negro population. The night police force is com- 
posed of citizens who are drafted for the purpose, and who are so fond of 
each other, or afraid of solitude, that you may always see them in squads 
of three or four. They are never about after midnight, consequently 
robberies are very frequent. 



19 

A charter for a series of street railroads, was obtained some years ago, 
but for several reasons they have not been built. They are very much 
needed, and will, when built, revolutionize the local transit, besides 
proving a profitable business. The streets in the direction of Botafogo 
bay, and to the Botanical garden;whichis six miles distant, are perfectly 
level, and, after about one-third of the way, are wide enough for a double 
track. In the business part of the city, the cars would go out one street 
and return another, parallel to it, as the carriages are obliged to do now. 
One noticeable peculiarity here is the absence of ladies from these public 
conve3 7 ances in the streets, and at the stores in the city. I have seen but 
a few in the omnibuses, but when cars are substituted, there will be a 
very great difference. In a whole day's walk I have not seen a single 
'pretty woman, not a solitary representative of 

" La doncella may fermosa." 

I have met, at dinner and dancing parties, some of our fair country 
women, and quite a number of English and French ladies, but I have not 
yet seen a really beautiful Brazilian. A Frenchman and an Englishman 
both assured me they were very scarce, and upon whatever subject you 
can get these two nationalities to agree, you may consider it as demon- 
strable as any thing in Euclid. 

Ladies are never seen shopping, except in carriages, when the goods 
are brought out for their inspection. Generally, whatever is required, is 
sent for, or samples to select from are sent to their houses. The pedlar 
is a popular institution. He goes from street to street, with his two clap- 
ping sticks, with which he gives notice of his approach. A stout negro 
follows him with his large case of wares on his head. He is always a 
welcome visitor, and no doubt drives many a profitable bargain. Every- 
thing is carried here upon the heads of the negroes. The day after my 
arrival. I got my trunk from the Custom house, and gave a negro half a 
dollar to tote it to the Hotel. He trotted off with it on his head, and 
accomplished the three miles nearly as quick as I did in a tilbury. 

Senor Gr., the engineer of the gas works, told me that when he first came 
here, he put a gang of twenty negroes to work filling up a ditch with 
broken stone, aud furnished them with the like number of wheelbarrows. 
Looking soon after from his office window, he saw them hard at work, 
each with his wheelbarrow on his head ! 

Speaking of shops, the Bua do Ovidor, the Broadway of Rio, which is 
about twenty feet in width, contains many fine collections of goods, 
mostly French. Another long street is almost entirely devoted to the 
gold workers and their brillianfes. Another is given over to harness and 



20 

leather work, and around the corner is the principal meat street, where 
all kinds of came can be bought. I visited many of the shops where 
the beautiful feather flowers of the country are for sale. Here is a strong 
temptation to spend your milreis. I have sent home some beautiful va- 
rieties, including wreaths, and flowers of green and gold made from the 
breasts of humming birds. The Brazilian beetle, or fire-fly, are set as 
sleeve buttons, pins, and other articles of jewelry. I made most of my 
purchases from the wife of a celebrated maker in the Rua Ouvidor, who 
was lately ordered off to the Amazon by his imperial master, to join the 
staff of Agassiz, as the taxidimist of the expedition. The finest flowers, 
however, are to be had at the Convents of Bahia, where I found them 
much cheaper than in Rio. I accepted an invitation to a dinner, given 
on the evening of New Year's day, by a wealthy English gentleman, and 
although the rooms and the table were adorned by some of the rarest and 
most splendid flowers from his garden, yet my attention was attracted to 
a large and brilliant boquet upon a stand, which I found Was made of 
delicate feathers, and which our hostess assured me she had purchased 
fifteen years ago. • ' 

The attention of tM Imperial Government has been attracted of late 
years, to the systenfbf railroads as a means of developing the immense 
resources of the Empire. I had an invitation from, a contractor whom I 
had known in the States, to take a journey into the interior, on the Es- 
trada de Ferro de Don Pedro Segundo— the railroad of Don Pedro 2d. — 
I accepted the proposition for a dia do campo — a country day—as became 
a traveler of an inquiring mind, holding good the scrap of philosophy, 
" to see what you can ichen you can." We set off in a tilbury, at six in 
the morning, for a five miles ride through the city, to the railroad depot. 
This building is a substantial and convenient structure. The cars are 
both of the English and American plan, In the train I went on, there 
were most of the former. These are apartments, opening on the side, 
containing eight comfortable ;cane seat arm-chairs. In one of these I 
saw one of the'fairer sex with "an infant in her arms. She did not allow 
the presence of the company^to interfere with the conscientious and 
elaborate performance of her maternal duties, while the men in the same 
car were puffing their cigars, niaJlinf, as I passed, a delicate blending of 
the smoke house and nursery. The "apartment assigned us was occupied 
by my friend, Mr. Humbert, the contractor for the big tunnel, his son 
and family, and ourselves. The road runs for some miles past suburban 
villas, almost buried in the redundant foliage of their splendid gardens. 
About three miles out, we arrived at the 5 Emperor's private staticn, lo- 
cated on the grounds of his palace of San Chistovao. These grounds are 



21 

very extensive and beautiful. In the long shaded aisles of walks and 
drives, the deep green arches are so massive that the fountains have 
scarcely light enough to dance in. The road passes directly along their 
whole length for nearly a league, with many views of the palace itself. 
We soon left all traces of city life behind us, and got into the regions of 
the large coffee estates. Here we see the houses of the wealthy planters 
and the coffee trees in thousands. Occasionally we pass corn, sugar and 
tobacco fields. There are about ten or twelve stations in the fifty-seven 
miles we went, but ours, being par excellence, the express train, but four 
stops were made. At the end of forty miles, through a rolling, cultivated 
country, we came to the ascent of the mountain. Here the lamps are all 
lighted in the carriages, ^v we have sixteen tunnels to go through, of 
more or less length. The g . le for seventeen miles is an average of ninety- 
five feet in the mile. On he top, therefore, we are about seventeen 
hundred feet above the i> ..ins. The road winds around very much, 
affording magnificent mountain views, and giving abundant evidence of a 
splendid success in engineering. At one point we look across a valley 
a thousand feet deep, and there, high up above us, is the road, hanging 
on the edges of the opposite mountain range, and while it cannot be a 
mile across, we are to travel eight miles before we reach it. The great 
tunnel has but just been completed. It is the last one, and there the 
road begins to descend. Beyond, the road is finished thirty miles further. 
It is intended to reach Rio S. Francisco, about two hundred miles alto- 
gether. This tunnel is one and a half miles in length, with four shafts 
of immense depth. There, for seven long years, have my Maryland 
friend and his sou labored faithfully and well. The Emperor visited it 
the other day, and pronounced it good. The work has therefore been 
accepted, and the contractor complimented for his skill and perseverance 
under very trying difficulties. He goes home in the spring, via Europe, 
where he has three children at school. I have promised to call and see 
them in Paris next month. At the station just beyond the tunnel, called 
Mendes, we alighted and took mules for a zigzag road of two milas in 
length, up the mountain and directly over the tunnel and near the main 
shaft. Here lived our host on what had formerly been a coffee estate. 
As we rode up to tli3 gate, I was escorted by a son of my old friend, Mr. 
Carleton, of Cumberland, whom I had not seen for a long time. "What, 
not another acquaintance?'' said my fellow traveler, as we alighted from 
the mules ; " I had supposed, 1 ' said he, "that here, on the top of a moun- 
tain, in the interior of Brazil, six thousand miles from home, you might 
afford to be unknown." F reminded him that the world was growing 



22 

Slnaller now-a-days, and that American traveling nature abhors a vacuum. 
"We shall find them wherever we go." 

The health of this place must be perfect. Its elevation above the plains, 
iine mountain air and water, and equable climate, always spring, has 
made it noted for its salubrity. The mere breathing the air is a luxury. 
We spent here six most delightful hours. The good dinner was relished. 
We had mountain kid, roasted, and all kinds of vegetables and fruits 
from the gardens. We left our friends reluctantly, declining to 
stay over night, as we had business engagements next morning. Both 
in going and returning, we could not help remarking upon the solidity 
and permanency of the construction of the road in every particular. I 
have seen no better road yet, in these respects. It was commenced by an 
English company years ago, but was finally taken by the government and 
finished by Americans. The last Engineer is Maj. Ellison, who is from 
Massachusetts, to whom great praise is awarded by every body. 

We arrived at our hotel in the evening, and slept soundly that night, 
notwithstanding the noise of two casuistic cats somewhere on our tiled 
roof, after as pleasant a day as I remember to have spent. Let him 
who can find anything much pleasanter, go his ways and make the most 
of it. 

And now I must terminate this already too long letter. I find I cannot 
condense an Empire into a paragraph, and will therefoie give of what 
occurred during my few remaining days' stay, in another letter, which I 
will write on the steamer, and mail at Lisbon or Madrid. H. S. 8. 



23 



No. 6. 

RIO DE JANEIRO AGAIN- THE U.S. PACIFIC SQUADRON 
-IMPERIAL VISIT TO THE MONADNOCK— THE EMPE- 
ROR AND HIS FAMILY— ANOTHER DAY AT TEJUCA— 
THE GAS WORKS-WATER WORKS-AMUSEMENT. 

Cape be Verde Isles, Jan. 23, 1866. 

The arrival of our splendid Pacific squadron, with the ugly looking 
Monitor "Monadnock," was the event of the last week of my stay at Rio 
de Janeiro. The echoes of the immense guns of the armament as they 
saluted the forts and war ships in the harbor, wakened up the lazy Bra- 
zilians, and set the carping Britishers to thinking. These latter don't 
like to have the old eagle scream so close to their ears. During the last 
four years, the large English population have, with scarcely an exception, 
exulted in our every defeat, and ridiculed our cause in every way, The 
few loyal Americans, in doubt as to the result of the struggle, were brow 
beaten, and in many instances openly abused by the English. But it is 
their turn now. They feel as did the Greeks at the dawn of Salamis # 
American stock went up on this arrival. The few self-expatriated coun- 
trymen of ours, who left their country and their negroes for the good of 
both, look upon this manifestation of our naval power with a regietful 
sadness. It makes them a little homesick. Early on a beautiful morn- 
ing the fleet sailed proudly into the splendid bay, and at the first pop of 
the guns I was at the window overlooking the entrance to the harbor, the 
Sugar Loaf mountain, and the opposite fortifications. The peculiar thrill 
which always accompanies the sight of the old flag in foreign ports, was 
intensified by the magnificence of the panoramic show. Such things 
startle me now and then, as I suppose the strange melody would have 
done, coming as unexpectedly, when the first sunbeams fell on Memnon's 
statue. We danced in costume du nuit, tried to sing the "Star Spangled 
Banner," dressed, and went out into the city. 

The last day of onr stay at Rio, was appointed by the Emperor to visit 
the monitor. He had never seen one. With his son-in-law, Comte d'Eu 
and attendants, he started from the dock at 11 o'clock. We had received 
an invitation from Lieutenant Painter to go on board the Tuscarawas 
which was lying near the monitor, and were pulled off in an eight-oared 
boat at about the same time. The day was lovely, and as we came along 



side, we were honored by a salute of twenty-one guns from the Vajbder- 
bilt, Powhattan, Tuscarawas, Kansas and Junietta, and immediately (lie 
boys in blue commenced running up the rigging of the different vessels, 
to man the yards. As we were gracefully removing our hats to acknow- 
ledge the civility, we saw the Emperor's yatch stop at the side of the 
Monitor, near by, and the august parly went on board. We conceded to 
him a fair share of the ovation, and went on board the Tuscarawas, where 
we had a good view and a nice lunch. 

We afterwards rowed over to the fort of Santa Cruz. Through ignorance 
of its necessity, we had no permit, and could not enter and examine t'le 
works. Not being, any of us. military men, which, in a company of three, 
from our land of Brigadiers, was quite a wonder, we persuaded ourselves 
we had not lost much, for. from the base of the fortress we had a charming- 
view of the White City, the harbor, with its gay banners streaming, the 
green valleys running up into the gorges of the hills, and the sea rolling 
as far as the eye could reach. As we rowed back under the lee of the 
huge fifteen inch guns of the monitor, we were consoled by the reflec- 
tion that one blaze from her would knock the old fort intc a cocked hat. 
We did not get a very near view of the Imperial party this time, but, 
the other day, as I was sitting in front of a cafe in the Rua Derieta. the 
sound of bugles and the tramp of horsemen announced the approach of 
his Majesty, who rode past in his usual galloping style, in a carriage with 
the Empress, escorted by a troop of cavalry and several outriders in gay 
costume. It was a Saint's day, and he had come into the city, to attend 
service at the Carmelite Church, near the Largo do Paco. Hither we 
went for the same purpose. The aisles, which I had seen all lonely the 
day before, were crowded with zealous worshippers. The high altar was 
blazing with a multitude of soft lights. The ceremonial vestments were 
very rich. An orchestra aided the organ, for here they always have wind 
instruments, and violins and drums in their choirs. High over all, the 
morning sun streamed through the painted windows, and you could see 
the incense, which was burning near the altar, curling around the capi- 
tals and clinging to the gilded arches. Near the altar, and under a can- 
opy of what seemed to be old pennons, on a raised seat, sat the Emperor 
Don Pedro 2d. The services lasted about forty minutes. I stood di- 
rectly behind the line of halberdiers that formed in the principal aisle of 
the church, and, being a trifle taller than the soldiers, his Majesty had a 
good view of me as he passed, bowing along out. Don Pedro has the 
reputation of being a fine scholar, good linguist, and a pleasant gentle- 
man. He is related by blood and marriage to nearly all the crowned 
heads of Europe. He has a good countenance, and a fine commanding 



25 

figure, being some three or four inches over six feet in height. His two 
daughters were married some two years ago; one, the heir apparent to the 
throne, to the Comte d' Eu, grandson of Louis Phillipe, and the other to 
the Duke Saxe. The Comte has a residence in the Languieras, near 
where I stopped, and I have met him several times. They are both said 
to be clever young men. The Empress is two years older than her hus- 
band, and looks exactly like her photographs. 

On the Saturday previous to our leaving Rio, we were invited to visit 
Tejuca again, and accordingly left in the 1-30 P.M. train. The man- 
sion of our host is located on a plateau of one of the numerous 
elevations that abound in that region, with a fine mountain air and 
views of the ocean. It rejoices in one of the most delightful patios 
I had seen, filled with orange and lemon trees and fragrant flow- 
ers. From the terraced gardens which slope off down to the edges 
of precipices a perfect range of wooded glens can be seen, 
crossing and recrossing each other. The fig, red lucerne, and 
pomegranate, grow luxuriantly beneath the tall palm. The wild 
mountain torrents are seen dashing down the opposite cliffs and are 
heard, brawling and fretting, over rocks far down below, on their 
way to the ocean. It was a scene that at once combined tropical luxu- 
riance with the summer freshness of our mountain views. This combi- 
nation of landscapes w T ill win one thoroughly from all other scenery 
after a time. At first, the eye looks in vain for the blended shadows 
of Northern landscape, and the rustic character so suggestive of coun- 
try life, but in its clear distinctness, its marvellous beauty of out- 
line, and in that vastness of view imparted by an atmosphere of such 
purity, there are indisputable charms. However, there may be persons 
of a different opinion ; I only give mine, and am sometimes grieved 
in my own heart to acknowledge how little I can catch of a connoi- 
Feur's enthusiasm, — wondering within myself wherefore I could not feel 
like that other man, whose raptures I have listened to — and with sore 
misgivings that some nice sense has been omitted in my nature : 
wonderfully painful things are these little appeals to an inner consci-: 
ousness. I know also that there is a wide difference between 
admiring what is beautiful yourself, and so portraying it that others 
may endorse your taste. A wise man was the learned Judge who re- 
fused to give reasons for his judgment. He said, "The opinion may 
be very good, but the reasons quite the contrary." At the dinner 
table we met some eighteen or twenty English ladies and gentlemen, 
among them the British Consul and family. After that was over I wan- 
dered around the grounds and over the hills until the moon came up. 



26 

The stars twinkled busily— undimmed, it seemed to me, even by the flood 
of light which was over all things. The rest of the picture was in slum- 
ber, from the broad unrippled sea to the heavy turretted mountains that 
went step-wise towards the sky. It was a night of all others to take the 
fairies out to dance. We had music and dancing after supper, and re- 
tired in good humor with every body and the rest of mankind. Of a cer- 
tainty it is a wise thing to send invalids to the mountains of Tejuca. 

I spent part of a day at the Gas Works. These are owned by an Eng- 
lish company, have proved valuable property, and are very extensive, 
covering several acres of ground. The manufacture of all kinds of pipe, 
gas fittiDgs and fixtures, lamps, chandeliers, bronze work of fine descrip- 
tions, are carried on by the company, there being no trade of the kind in 
the city. They are obliged to keep on hand an immense lot of large 
lanterns for use during illuminations, of which these people are very 
fond. The last one was on the occasion of the Emperor's return, a 
short time since, from the war with Paraguay. Most of the employees 
are slaves. There were about twenty negro boys, belonging to the 
Emperor, at work on fine bronzes and brasses. I was informed that 
they learned the trade readily and made good workmen. The lamp 
posts in the city are placed very much nearer each other than ours are, 
and extend for miles in every direction. We found them at Tejuca nine 
miles out. The company have 124 miles of gas mains, and 5,800 public 
lights, ten hours each night. For this they receive 108 milreis, cash, per 
annum, which amounts to the nice little sam of $318,256 00 in the aggre- 
gate. This is paid by Government, and not by the city, as with us. They 
use a superior kind of English cannel coal which costs them here about 
$15 per ton. The gas is of the first quality. The charge to private con- 
sumers is $4 per thousand in specie. Instead of lime, they use a kind of 
red earth which is obtained by hauling, and is inexpensive. This 
contains peroxide of iron, alumen, argillaceous matter, &c. People 
bring their children here to be cured of the whooping cough. The car- 
riages of the Prussian Minister was at the door with three of his children 
who had been inhaling over the purifier while it was being cleansed out. 
The gas works at Bahia, Pernambuco, Para, Buenos Ayres, and Monte 
Video, are all owned by the English, and are managed pretty much the 
same. 

The city is well watered as well as lighted. An aqueduct from the 
Corcovado, and one from Tejuca, in a different direction, give a bountiful 
supply. At almost every corner there are huge brass cocks in the walls, 
about five feet high, and, underneath, a stone block to rest the vessel 
Upon. Here the slaves and servants may be seen at all hours of the day 



27 

drawing water in calabashes, buckets, earthen jars, &c, and going away 
with them on their heads. This is also a government expense, there 
being no direct tax for anything, not even for making sewers or paving 
streets. It all comes out of the whole country, through taxes on imports 
and from other sources of revenue. It is as if the city of Newburg should 
be taxed for lighting and paving the streets of the village of Cleveland. 

Of the Courts of Justice I cannot say anything, as, fortunately, I had 
no business with them. I happened by a magistrate's office one day and 
just stepped in a moment. It was a case of dog, and, as I had seen the 
same thing several times at home, I left. 

Of their school system, I refer you to Fletcher, who has considerable 
to say on the subject. Some of the Collegiate buildings and grounds are 
very fine, the one at Botafogo, for instance. They are all Catholic. 

I was so busy while at Rio that I did not attend any of the several 
places of public amusement in the evenings. My companion, however, 
went once with some officers of the Tuscarawas, to the Alcazar, where, 
among other things there was a ballet performance. He says the gyra- 
tions and saltations were about the same as we see at home, only more 
so. I expect to see some of these dances In Spain, when the reader, if it 
so pleases him, shall hear more of them. Most of the dancers here are 
imported from Seville and Cordova. We have an Impresari on board 
our steamer who is going there to bring out a lot to the cities on the river 
Plate, where he has theatres. 

My next letter, for I take it for granted that you have had enough of 
this, will be dated from somewhere else. H. S. S. 



28 



No. 7. 

BAHIA— AN ITEM ABOUT CATHEDRALS— OFF FOR ST. 
VINCENT-OUR COMPANY— READING- THE PRESIDENT'S 
MESSAGE-HOW THE DAYS ARE SPENT— ST. VINCENT- 
ENTERING THE TAGUS. 

Lisbon, Jan. 30, 186G. 

On the morning of January 9th we shipped from Rio, for this port, via 
Bahia, Pernambuco and Cape de Verde Islands, in Her Majesty's Royal 
Mail Steam Packet "Oneida," which runs between Rio and Southampton, 
England. This is a powerful iron screw steamer, built for, and originally 
run in, the Australian trade. There were the usual crowds on the docks 
and on board, to see their friends off, with waving of handkerchiefs and 
drying of tears, It is hard to be disinterested spectators of hissings at 
such partings, where the brightness of the eyes and the freshness of the 
lips give such enlarged and delightful ideas of the philosophy of adapta- 
tion. But a traveler, who is but a rolling stone, can expect to gather no 
such moss. 

Steamers are no picturesque tourists, and we ploughed along at the 
rate often miles the hour, passing under the lee of the Vanderbilt, Ju- 
niata and the Monitor, through and among the shipping, including some 
fifteen ex-blockade runners, who were at anchor. Onward we went, out. 
into the Southern Ocean, for a transatlantic trip of three weeks duration. 
This ship has proved herself a good sea vessel in every respect, but her 
passenger accommodations do not compare with some of our sea-going 
steamers. The people on board, as is usual, represent various nationali- 
ties, the English, in this case, predominating. We are already intimately 
acquainted with many of these latter, by virtue of being thrown together 
on the quarter deck to seek amusements and conversations. Strange 
indeed, is this kind of traveling acquaintanceship, familar without friend- 
ship, frank without being cordial. I have often thought what curious 
pictures of life might be thrown accidentally together, in steamships 
railroads and watering places. How free is all the intercourse of those 
who never expect to meet again ! always making up little cliques to be 
dissolved in a day — actually living on the eventualities of the hour 
for their confidences, the oddities of this one, the eccentricities of that, 
politics, the weather, &c, forming the basis of talk. 

I will not trespass upon your readers patience by giving minute de- 
ceptions of characters J might introduce. In this era of universal vaga- 



29 

bondage, no charities are wasted upon our estimate of each other in trav- 
eling, and, besides, prominent traits of character lie so lightly on the sur- 
face that they are capable of but little elucidation. Next in numbers to the 
English on board, we have many of that race who, with all the odds of 
a great majority against them, enjoy a marvellous share of this world's 
prosperity. You may know them by a certain aquiline character of 
nose, and a peculiar dull lustre of the eye. They have "smelt the battle 
from afar off," andean tell you all about Paraguay and her troubles, 
As for the balance of our passengers, with the exception of a confede- 
rate Colonel and an American, they might all be called "cognate num- 
bers," and I don't intend to trouble you with them. The rebel Colonel 
was formerly on Stonewall Jackson's staff, but afterwards went into the 
blockade running trade, and has made many successful trips. ] [The ob- 
ject of his visit to Brazil was to dispose of several of the blockade run- 
ners. There are now fiftc a in the harbor of Rio. Several of them have 
been sold to the governmjnt for transports. The Colonel is a fair spe- 
cimen of his class. We have been together quite often, on board and on 
shore, and we do not hear a word about the past from him. It is so sorry 
a subject that I have seen no rebel officer yet, but who will deprecate a 
discussion on what has happened. There is one marked peculiarity 
among them all, and that is their hatred of the English. How I would 
like to be able to sketch the scene on the quarter deck after we left Per- 
nambuco, where we obtained a London paper which contained our Pre- 
sident's message. The group consisted of three Americans, our Colonel, 
and about twenty Englishmen, many of whom were highly intelligent 
gentlemen. The Colonel was called upon to read the message aloud for 
the benefit of all. This he did, emphasizing certain passages, especially 
that one about England. One young Englishman ventured to say that 
there was no use talking about indemnity, "Lord Russell had written his 
last letter," &c. The Colonel fired up in his style, and offered to stake his 
life that if the United States demanded payment, flat footed, with war as 
the alternative, England would pay at once. This brought on quite a 
scene among us, in which lively words were passed. 

We went on shore at Bahia, where we arrived in four days from Rio. 
Here I had a better opportunity of seeing the public gardens and churches 
than before. We landed at the Market Place. No body ever starved to 
death, T take it for granted, in Bahia. I saw no preparations for any- 
thing of the sort while I was there. I visited the Cathedral, the largest 
in the Empire. I have seen most of the churches in Rio, but this one 
excels them all in that peculiar solemnity of grandeur which makes the 
Gothic the architecture of religion. As we entered, many of the win- 



80 

(lows were shaded, and it was some time before our eyes, fresh from the 
glare of the pavements, became sufficiently accustomed to the gloom 
But, by degrees, the fine galleries, the gorgeous glass, the simple and lofty 
arches in concentering clusters, the light columns of the altar screen 
and the perfect fretwork of the choir, grew into what might be called be- 
wildering distinctness. Here were several worshippers on their knees. — 
I went into a church at Rio the other evening just at dark. A few candles 
were lighted upon a single altar, 1 and a priest was kneeling before it 
reading some prayers, to which a few school^ boys were responding in that 
peculiar caterwaul so characteristic of these sliolastic devotional exercises. 
With this exception, and that of a few poor people upon their knees in 
quite audible prayer, darkness and silence had the church to themselves, 
and our echoing footsteps, the dim glimpses of arch and column and cor- 
nice, the shadowy high altar and gloomy choir, gave semblance of awe to 
this huge building which it wanted very much in the daylight. 

The freedom of access peculiar to all these churches has a real value, 
so it seems to me. A thousand unworthy motives may attract people 
to the stated service, while sorrow, poverty and shame may drive away 
from public observation those who need the coosolations ofreligion most. 
How proper is it, then, that there should always be a place of refuge 
open for the desolate. How wise and just that all facility should be 
afforded for that humble, unobtrusive worship which cares not to be 
seen of men. The grand cathedrals of the middle ages all over the 
world, might well be called mere monuments of van'ty and superstition, 
were they only opened for a few hours in the week, that well dressed 
piety might enter and be briefly and respectably devout. 

At every city of the Empire I have visited, and especially at Bahia, I 
have noticed the long rows of shops devoted to the sale of miracle work 
ing images, from those of the Virgin down to the last Saint in the calen 
dar. These are all sizes and prices, manufactured of wood, metal and 
clay. In these spiritual drug shops, there is a large trade driven for 
money. This, and other customs, and the general bad reputation of the 
monks and priests, seems to require the attrition arising from the presence 
of other creeds and sects to keep them up to the professed standard of 
Christian purity. This no doubt accounts for the difference in so many 
respects between the customs and Clergy here, and those in the States. 
It is another argument against monopolies. 

We arrived at Pernambuco at noon on the 15th of January, and left 
the same evening. Here we cut loose from the New World and steered 
a Northeasterly course to Cape de Verde Islands, our next stopping 
place, and 1,600 miles distant. These islands are off the coast of Sene- 
gambia, ia Africa, in latitude 17° North. 



31 

During the week we were making this distance we had light variable 
head winds until we struck the South-east trades, when we were able to 
use sail, which aided our steam some forty miles a day. There was a 
rain storm or two, but no very heavy sea. We crossed the Equator at 
11 P. M. Jan. 17, The Line was not visible to the naked eye, probably 
owing to the darkness of the night. Our community on board, consist- 
ing of some two hundred and forty persons, are very quiet and regular in 
their habits. Bath at 6:30 A. M. (That is mine, some have different 
hours.) Coffee served in state-room at 7. Breakfast at 9. Lunch at 12. 
Dinner at 4. Tea at 7 P. M. Whist, euchre, chess. &c. commence at 8. 
The lights are all extinguished at 11. We have an amateur dramatic 
company on board, made up from among the stewards, waiters, &c. 
From long practice they do very well in their comedies and farces, which 
are gotten up in the grand dining saloon. The bill is pasted on the 
usual bulletin board, announcing the play, characters, &c, early in the 
day. On this board, too, we find the result of the ship's log at 12 o'clock 
such day for the previous 24 hours. I transcribe two of them, which 
show the difference in the direction of the wind in its action upon the 
speed of the vessel, in the two respective days : January 21st, Lat. 11.8 
N., Long. 27.12 W. Bun 180 miles. To St. Vincent 375 miles. Jan. 
22d, Lat. 14.34 N., Long. 25.59 W. Bun 219 miles. To St. Vincent 156 
miles. On Sundays we have the Episcopal service read on board at 11 
A. M., at whieh there is a general attendance of passengers, officers and 
crew. 

On the morning of the 23d, we sighted the land of San Antonio, one 
of the Cape de Verde group,, and soon passed round into the harbor, a 
basin, wherein lies the little town of St. Vincent. Why these Islands are 
called green, I cannot imagine. It has been indisputably demonstrated 
that the whole bay was originally the mouth of a volcanic crater, and 
the surface of burnt stone, argilaceous earth, and absence of all vegeta- 
tion, would seem to verify it. 

There being nothing in the town itself, we turned conchologists and 
went shell gathering around the shores of the bay, 

" Deep in the waves is the coral grove 

Where the purple mullet and the gold-fish rove." 

But here the coral was near the surface, as were some of the mullets. 
We collected several fine specimens of coral, and some delicate shells. 

This place is a convenient harbor for vessels, and is only used as such, 
and as a depot for coaling. We left at 7 P. M. and passed out into the 
ocean for a trip of 1550 miles to Lisbon, We passed the Peak of TenerifFe 



32 

on the coast of Morocco, on the 27th, and now, on this morning, the 30th, 
just twenty-one days out from Rio, we are passing into the river Tagus, 

H. S.S. 



No. 8. 

TOUCHING EUROPE— LISBON— A CITY OF EARTHQUAKES 
CHAPEL OF ST. ROCH-A PORTUGUESE OPERA HOUSE 
OFF FOR SPAIN— THE CORK FORESTS— SANTAREM— THE 
SPANISH-PORTUGUESE RUBICON-IN SPAIN— ELVAS— 
BADAJOZ. 

Merida, Spain, Ja-a. 3, 180(3. 

It may be as well to state to the reader at once, that the same descrip- 
tive line, without especial personal adventure, must be adopted by all 
travelers in the Old World. The ground has been gone over so many 
hundreds of times by those who have such leisure as to enable them to 
perfect or elaborate their story, that nothing must be expected from this 
slight sketch of my subject. But the same feeling occurs to me, that I 
have no doubt does to the mind of everyone who visits the Old World 
for the first time, that notwithstanding we have studied all the ancient 
and modern histories, and have read all the "Familiar Letters," "Jour- 
nals," "Glimpses," "Sketches," "Scribblings," etc., etc., with which the 
press has been prolific for a 'century, until our heads are full of a jumble 
of mountains, palaces, cities, rivers, ruins, plains and people, yet, after 
all that, we do not realize, the thing itself until we see and feel it. I 
suppose that the almost universal desire to write, while here, is to be 
mainly attributed to this fact. It seems a new revelation to us, and we 
must write it out. 

My advent into the Old World through ancient Lusitania, now 
Portugal, was marked by no particular sign. The river Tagus widens 
out as we approach the city of Lisbon, andfhere forms a large bay. It 
was crowded with vessels of all nations. We passed the Fort St. Julien 
at 7 A. M. on the morning of the 30th of January, then the Castle Belem, 



33 

and in full view of the paiace upon the high grounds in the rear, and then, 
three miles farther on, to the landing in front of the city. We had heard 
of the revolution in Spain, at the Cape deYerdes, and were almost deter- 
mined to avoid it and go to Southampton direct, but the long sea voyage 
had just been enough of that kind of life, and the tales of recent ship- 
wrecks and gales in the English Channel, all combined, determined us 
to try the land for awhile. I wanted to see Spain. It had never occurred 
to me that I should see, except in dreams, the bright land I had so often 
seen in them; and now, within so short a distance, I could not avoid the 
opportunity. The route to London, via Madrid, Bayonne, Bordeaux, and 
Paris, overland, is but two days longer than by sea to Southampton. 

The city of Lisbon is beautifully situated on the northern bank of the 
Tagus, about six miles above the entrance of the river into the Atlantic. 
It is built on a succession of hills in the form of an amphitheatre, aud i;< 
about 9 miles long, with a population estimated at 300,000. The modern 
portion of the city is very fine and well laid out. The streets are clean, 
well paved and lighted. This part has replaced the old portion of the 
city, which was destroyed by the great earthquake of 1755. From the 
earliest times, Lisbon has been subject to earthquakes. On the 1st No- 
vember, 1755, a great shock occurred which overthrew almost all the pub- 
lic buildings and thousands of private houses. It is said that 30,000 
people perished either in the ruins of the city, or in the attempt to save 
themselves by rushing on board the ships in the harbor. The greatest 
attraction here, to me, after the people, streets, houses, shops and public 
gardens, was the Church of St. Roch, with its world renowned Chapel of 
St. John. I remember of reading of this, years ago, and my first impulse, 
after getting rid of the Custom House formalities, and locating at the 
hotel, was to see this church. The exterior is plain, but the interior is 
very fine. I can give no better description of it than that I translate 
for you, which is correct . 

U A brief description of the Royal Chapel of St. John the Baptist, 
made at Rome, by order of D. John V. of Portugal, and erected in the 
Church of St. Roch. The mosaic in the center is a representation of the 
Baptism of Christ in the Jordan ; that on the right represents the An- 
nunciation of the Blessed Virgin Mary, and the one on the left, the De- 
scent of the Holy Ghost. These pieces are imitations, in mosaic, of the 
paintings of eminent artists ; the Baptism of Christ being taken from 
Michael Angelo ; the Annunciation from Guido, and the Descent of the 
Holy Ghost from Raphael. Fifteen years were spent in the execution of 
these mosaics by the ablest artists of the day. In the centre of the floor, 
which is also mosaic, is represented a globe, as if to indicate that the 



34 

above mentioned pieces are the most famous in the world. The two 
panels on the ceiling, in Carrara marble, were executed under the direc- 
tion of the renowned sculptor, MayneGiusti, who brought the chapel to 
Portugal. 

" There are in this chapel eight columns of lapis-lazuli. The other 
stones of which it is composed, are cornelian, amethyst, Egyptian alabas- 
ter, verde antique, Roman marble, and porphyry. The doors are bronze, 
beautifully worked, and gilt. The candelabra and the lamps are of solid 
silver, and the altar is ornamented with a scriptural group in alto relievo, 
which is one entire block of silver. 

" In 1774 this chapel was temporarily set up in St. Peters, at Rome, for 
exhibition, and was consecrated by Benedict XIV, who said the first 
mass in it, after which it was taken down and conveyed to Portugal, 
where, in 1746, it was erected in the church of St. Roch," — and here I 
found it. There were seven other chapels in the church, all ornamented 
with splendid paintings. 

In the evening I went to the Opera, at the Teatro Don Carlos 2d, the 
second largest Opera House in Europe. The play was u Faust," and, cer- 
tainly, if perfect siDging, acting and scenic representation could define 
the thought of the author, and entrance the hearer in any play, it was 
done in this one. I sat near the orchestra, and had a good view of the 
six tiers of boxes that went upwards in gilded succession to the top, all 
full of Senors and Senoritas. The orchestra was composed of sixty-one 
performers, (my companion counted them,) mostly violinists, and at one 
time there were over two hundred ballet dancers on the stage together. 
Many of the officers of the United States Steamship Canandaigua were 
with us. She belongs to the Mediterranean Squadron, and had just come 
into port. 

I had quite a long interview with our Minister, Hon. Jas. P. Harvey, 
who has been here for five years. He gave me a history of the trouble 
with the Stonewall and Niagara while they were here in port together. 
We visited the celebrated acqueduct and reservoir, called on the Spanish 
Minister, and admired the public gardens, streets, and pretty women, 
and so, done Lisbon. 

Our party left on the train for Badajoz in Spain, at 7 A. M. on the 
morning of the 2d of January. Besides myself and my companion, Mr. 
G., there was a New Yorker who had been in the South American Re- 
publics for the past fourteen months, and whom we met in Brazil, and 
who had traveled over Asia Minor, Turkey, Russia, and through all the 
cities of Europe, except those of Spain, and also a Grecian gentleman and 
his wife, making five in all. The Greek was going to Smyrna, via Madrid 



35 

and Marseilles. It has been my good fortune to meet with several Greek 
merchants, and I have found them uniformly well bred, highly cultivated, 
and intelligent upon every subject. They remind you of the Jew in their 
money getting proclivities, of the Yankee ii their perseverance, and of 
the student and traveler in their culture. We five had an apartment in 
a car to ourselves. The route is almost due east, from Lisbon directly 
across Portugal. In the first eighty miles we went through a highly cul- 
tivated country, with orange, fig, and olive trees in abundance. The olive 
were as numerous as the coffee trees in Brazil. There were long rows of 
thousands of them. As we ascended to the upper plains, we found the cork 
tree almost universal. No other tree was to be seen for a hundred miles. 
The cork fcrests remind you of a great apple orchard, the trees being 
the same size, and just about as far apart. There is no undergrowth, and 
no other cultivation except the grape, and now and then a wheat field. 
The exportation of cork must be very great. I saw piles of it at several 
of the railway stations, and vessels laden with it in the harbor of Lisbon . 

We passed through several towns on our route, among others, Santeram, 
founded in 406 by the Romans, and afterwards occupied by the Moors. 
Near this place, on an island in the river, seemingly made on purpose to 
hold it, there is an entire Moorish castle, with donjon, keep and battle- 
ment, in perfect condition, as it stood a dozen centuries ago. As we swept 
along, every line of it was clearly defined in the declining sunlight- 

I had expected to find very mountainous regions in the east of Portugal, 
but, on the contrary, although high, the country was a level plain, with 
now and then an elevation upon which was perched a walled city, with its 
garden fringes. There are no natural Pyrenees, no deep Tagus, or any 
Chinese wall that divides these two kingdoms. A small rivulet, the Caya, 
is the rubicon, and parts those who speak i\\e sonorous Gastilian from 
the squeaking Lusitanian. 

"And scarce a name distinguished the brook. 
Though rival kingdoms press its verdant sides," 

says Byron, in Childe Harold, of this very stream. 

"Elvas" is the last town on the Portuguese frontier. It is quite cele- 
brated in history. It is strongly fortified and contains an arsenal, a canon 
foundry, a manufactory of arms, extensive barracks, and a theatre. It 
has about 10,000 inhabitants. It has been subject to a great many rever- 
ses in the wars of the centuries that have passed over it. We crossed 
the "Caya u at sundown and came to Badajoz, five miles from the frontier 
of Portugal. Here our baggage was examined, and we changed cars for 
Merida, thirty miles distant. 



36 

Badajoz is an important frontier place, and owes its interest to military 
events. It was taken from the Moors in 1235. Kellerman and Victor 
failed before it in 1808. It was the scene of many of Wellington's battles 
during the war of the Peniusula. The arms of Badajoz are the pillars 
of Hercules, and the motto, Plus Ultra. This beyond, has yet to be ac- 
complished, so I think, after a look at it. 

We arrived at Merida, where we take the diligencia at 8 P. M. 

H. S. S. 



No. 9. 

MERIDA— ANCIENT TOWN- MOORISH ANTIQU1TIES-A 
DILIGENCE RIDE-ENTERING MADRID— A SPANISH HINT 
TO CLEVELAND. 

Madrid, Jan. 6, I860. 

At Merida we had a decided set-back, — quite a disappointment. The 
diligencia was full. We had been told at Lisbon, by the American Min- 
ister, who had recently passed over the route to Paris and back, that 
there was no necessity for telegraphing in advance for seats in the dili- 
gence ; that the revolutionary troubles in Spain had stopped travel, and 
there would be plenty of room. So others told us, and, we, strangers to 
the land, were taken in at Merida for twenty-four hours. However, we 
found, although time was of account, that we had stumbled upon some- 
thing worth staying for, and I will proceed to tell you what it was, in the 
best language I know of out of Spain. 

We got our luggage up to the little Fonda called the "Posada de los 
Diligencia" — stage inn — an exact description of which you will find in 
Don Quixote, and were standing around, grumbling at each other and 
everything, waiting for some beds to be put up for us, when it occurred 
to me that I had somewhere read of the Moorish and Roman ruins at 
this place ; and, on inquiry, found out that we should see something that 
would repay us for the delay and trouble ; so we went to bed, for the first 
time in Spain, and in tolerable good.humor. The next morning 1 took my 
first good look at old Spain. It is hard to analyze one's impressions where 
there is so much novelty in every thing. My mind reverted at once to 
the old times, away down the centuries, before the Christian despoiler 
came to mar the glorious works of art left by the Moors, and, yet farther, 



37 

through the dark ages, when the Visigoths ruled the fair laud, and still 
beyond, to the time, centuries before Christ, when the Phoenicians, and 
afterwards the Caithagenians, and still subsequently the Romans held 
sway. The Romans were invited over, about two hundred years before 
Christ, by the inhabitants of the country, to protect them from their 
neighbors; and, I suppose, liking the land, they quietly appropriated it to 
themselves — a little business transaction which has found its imitators 
even to the present day. But, in the sweep of the centuries, came the 
Retribution, and the doctrine of compensation was fully vindicated, 
when, after seven hundred years of quiet, luxurious occupation, the Visi- 
goths poured down from the northern plains, and, in their turn, enjoyed 
the magnificent vegas and fruitful soil. History was renewed again when 
the Moors came from Africa and drove away the Goths. It was some 
five hundred years before the last strong hold of the Moors was taken 
by the Christians. But give me the pagans, or the Got hs — for theyre 
spected the Roman remains — or the Moors, with their knowledge of the 
arts, in preference to the race that now inhabit this land, Look at this 
place, Merida. Under the Romans it was the capital of Lusitania, and 
counted seven hundred thousand inhabitants. Its walls extended twenty- 
one miles. The vast level plains that surround it, are full of the ruins 
of a great city. The little miserable pinched up town now, has about four 
thousand lazy, indolent people, whose peculiarities are not worth de- 
scribing. According to an inscription I found on a monument, a tall 
marble shaft with a carved figure upon it, the city was founded by Au- 
gustus, for the settlement of his veteran troops, the Emirita. We visited 
Saint Eulalia, a huge convent — the Aleazir, partly Roman and partly 
Moorish. This old palace and castle overlooks the river Guadiana, and 
is very interesting. The owner of the place has built him a house in the 
enclosure, and has some of the finest orange and lemon groves I have yet 
seen. In it is also a church, formerly a Roman temple, afterwards a 
Moorish mosque, and now a place for Christian worship. The evidences 
of the Roman and Moorish architecture are abundant in this building, 
and also in the baths near by, where* the Roman arches, in the descent 
we made of sixty-one steps, are perfect, but were so improved upon by 
the Moorish arabesques, that it is difficult, at first, to determine upon 
tho origin. It is this combination of the two eras of art that give to this 
portion of Spain, its superiority over every other place which the art 
seeker and the antiquarian love to visit. Merida has been called the 
Rome of Spain, but with all due deference tc; the vast ruins in Rome, 
there must be that lack of Moorish combination, which is only found here- 
I account for the preservation of these regains, from the fact, that here, 



38 

on the confines of Spain and Portugal, away from airy travel until within 
the past year a railroad has been completed, the vandals have not had an 
opportunity to quarry them away. The Government has, however, been 
lately taking a zealous interest in the preservation of many of the ruins. 
As, for instance, just near the railroad depot are some splendid arches, 
the remains of an aqueduct built by the Emperor Trajan twenty centuries 
ago. The engineer laid his road directly through one of these, but the 
government stopped it, and the road was obliged to diverge a little. The 
most interesting place to me was the fine Roman bridge which crosses 
the Guardiana, of eighty-one arches, and 2,500 feet in length. I spent 
some hours in the bright day upon and under the arches. I should think 
it would be of peculiar interest to the antiquarian, the historian and the 
architect. I afterwards went out upon the plains a mile or so, to see the 
old Roman circus and theatre. These were formerly in the centre of the 
city. About half of the vast amphitheatre is almost intact. The walls at 
the base, at the several entrances, are thirty-six feet through, and 
the arches are perfect. The upper walls are made of concrete, which has 
crumbled in places. The seats are all there, in stone, as when first laid 
by the builder. Within the present city limits there is an arch built by 
Trajan, sixty feet high by forty broad. The huge cut stones are slightly 
rounded by the wear and tear of ages, but will hold up for many more to 
come. 

So much for Merida, which I would advise every traveler who comes 
this way to visit. 

Next in order comes our diligence ride of forty hours, one hundred 
and three leagues, to Madrid, through a most interesting portion of Spain. 
We had taken the precaution to get the best seats, and except for the 
cramped up places, we got along very well, varying the monotony by 
walking up some of the hills. 

The eight mules are hitched to the huge stage coach, four abreast, and 
are kept on a run over all the roads on the plains. They are changed fre- 
quently. The first important town we came to was Truxillo. It stands on 
he declivity of a granite hill, crowned by an ancient castle, and has an im- 
posing appearance. Here Pizarro, the conqueror of Peru, was born, and he 
lies buried in thelChurch near the Fonda where we stopped. The next 
place of any importance is Talavera. It is beautifully situated on the 
right bank of the Tagus, which is here crossed by a bridge of thirty or 
forty arches, built in the Fifteenth Century. Here, in July, 1809, was 
fought the battle in which the English and Spanish troops, under the 
Duke of Wellington, defeated the French under Joseph Bonaparte, and 
Marshals Jourdain and Victor. There are some Roman remains, and the 
plains are covered with Moorish towers. 



39 

We then came to Maqueda and Naralcarnero. The country is, gene- 
rally speaking, uncultivated, except in the vicinity of the towns and 
villages, and exhibits, to the left, a long chain of iron covered moun- 
tains. Everything on the plains is green and growing, and the weather 
very much as it is with us in June. From the elevation on which was 
perched the last station, twelve miles, we could see the long line of 
buildings which distinguish Madrid from the dry, arid plains which 
everywhere surround it. It was Sunday afternoon, and the people were 
out in the suburbs pic-nicking, and happy looking enough. We entered 
the city by the gate of Foncarral, and our route led directly by two fronts 
of the palace into the " Calle Alcala." Here we stopped in the Puerto 
del Sol, — opening for the Sun — at the "Hotel of the Princes." This Puerto 
is a square, about as large as ours in Cleveland, with a statue and fountains 
in the center. It is paved all over, and surrounded with hotels, cafes, 
all kinds of goods, the Post Office and other public buildings. There is 
splendid stores of no ugly looking wooden fence, or any obstruction 
whatever to a free travel all over it. The trees and foliage, instead of 
being placed in the principal business street, are found in profusion in 
the Prado and Public Gardens, where they should be to be appreciated. 
The people in all the Catholic Countries I have visited, with all their 
faults, are far ahead of us in this provision for the public. New York 
has seen the importance of these improvements in creating the Central 
Park. Cleveland might do something by locating a Prado upon the Laka 
shore, and relieving Superior Street of its present incubus. It will be done 
sometime. 

What I have seen in Madrid in my limited time, and without the as- 
sistance of an Asmodeus to uncover the roofs of the houses, I shall try to 
tell you about in a day or two. H. S. S. 



40 



No. 10. 

MADRID TO GRENADA-THE PROVINCE OF LA MANCHA— 
SCENES OF DON QUIXOTE'S EXPLOITS-GRENADA-THE 
ALHAMBRA-A GIPSY DANCE-THE OPERA-THE CA- 
THEDRAL-TOMBS OF FERDINAND AND ISABELLA. 

Grenada, Spain, Feb. 10, 1866. 

I came from Madrid to Grenada, by rail to Almuradill, about one hun- 
dred and seventy-five miles, thence by diligence one hundred and twenty 
miles, through Baylen, Jaen, and some other towns. The whole time 
was thirty hours. We left Madrid at nine in the evening, and came to 
the station where we took our stage— or diligencia — at daylight. This 
coach is unique in its apartments and appointments, but, I should think, 
well calculated for a trip over the mountains of Grenada. It has the 
coupe, above, for four persons; the berlina, below, in front, for three, and 
the interieure, also b3low and in the rear, for six. The baggage, on top, 
behind the coupe. For the first thirty miles we passed over a level, 
dreary country, nearly flat, with now and then a town, where we exchan- 
ged mules. We had ten mules at each change, two abreast, with a pos- 
tillion on one of the leaders. These were all kept on a full run the whole 
way ; up and down, and through everything, the same yell was heard 
from driver and guard, keeping up a gallop without a stop. Fortunately 
the roads were good — as are all the reads I have yet seen in Spain— and 
we made good time. 

We passed through Manzanares, memorable for the scene of Don 
Quixote's knighthood. The road, made by Charles III nearly a century 
ago, winds through a mountain gorge, with toppling crags above and 
around, some of which are called here los organos, from representing the 
pipes of an enormous organ. The province of La Mancha, which we now 
enter, is mostly table land, and about two thousand feet above the sea. 
It is entirely denuded of trees, and except occasionally, where, in the 
dips of the undulating plains, a streamlet creates a partial verdure and 
fertility, there is a great want of water. We get tired with the wide ex- 
panse of monotonous steppes. Nothing but the genius of a Cervantes 
could have thrown any charm over its dullness. The towns are poori 
and without a particle of comfort Or interest. The whole country was 



41 

So overrun during the war of the Peninsula, that nothing seems to naVS 
been left. The peasants of the country seem quiet, patient, and honest 
enough. With their picturesque serapias, and brown cloth clothes, they 
look the very image of Sancho Panza — the homely, real, Manchegan 
peasant. He is the trne Juan Espanol — the simple John Bull of Spain. 
After passing through the gorge, we think of Don Quixote, Cardenia, 
and Dorethea, as realities. Among the mountains to the left was the 
scene of the knight's penance. Somewhere near there he liberated the 
gallant slaves. This is Don Quixote's country, and everybody who pas- 
ses through it should have his story with him. 

All along the route, through La Mancha, we imagined the Hidalgo, 
tall, spare and punctilious, balanced by the short, round, fat and familiar 
squire, in his pano parch, greedy, beggarly and somnolescent. You may 
see plenty of them whenever the diligence stops. It is heresy to read 
Don Quixote except in his own language. It is like some one says of 
Schelegel's translating Shakespeare — transferring English gold into 
German Silver. One word here for honest Sancho Panca's proverbs— 
Refraues, they call them — which are peculiarly classical, Oriental and 
Spanish. These wise saws and maxims are in the mouths of every 
Sancho I have met in the Peninsula. They seem to be the burden of 
their song and speech. A proverb, well introduced, is as decisive of an 
argument as a bet is with us. This shotting a discourse has settled my 
questions with them sometimes to my own discomfort. I would advise 
travelers in this country never to get angry. It does no good. They meet 
you, if you are in a hurry, which you always are, with a shrug and Pad- 
enza Senor, espera poco — have patience, sir, and wait a little. 

The next town we come to is Santa Cruz de Mudilla, a dull place of 
about 5,000 inhabitants. The women here offer garters for sale, with 
all sorts of embroidered mottos, quite untranslatable. 

11 Te digan estas Ugas s 

Mis pejias y fatiQas, ' ' 
Fel'tz quien los aparta, and so forth. Some of these Epigrammata are 
truly antique. You can compare them with the inscription on the girdle 
ofHermione. The city of Jaen, with about 12,000 inhabitants, stands 
at the entrance of the mountain passes of Grenada. You can see it from 
the plains as you approach, lying at the foot of the huge mountain, with 
the ruins of the castle just above it. The road for miles is straight, with 
a gentle rise, wide, smooth and lined with shade trees. As we approach- 
ed, in the afternoon, the people were out in their best attire, as it was, 
as usual, a holiday with them. We changed our ten mules for as many 
others, and then went through the gorges of the mountains. Here is 



42 

where the Moors defeated the great army sent out from Seville, in the 
glorious style described by Irving, when the stately and heroic warriors 
with which the whole stage glitters in this drama, were overpowered by 
the rocks from the toppling crags thrown down from above by the Moors. 
The mountain scenery is very grand, the villages on the way, old, decay- 
ing and quiet. Olives, grapes, figs and pomegranites grow in abundance. 
The aloe and the cactus is also frequently seen. 

I arose early in the morning in Grenada, for a walk, and a visit to the 
barber's. Here you find the old Don's identical helmet, as you do all 
over Southern Spain, suspended immediately in front over the door, in- 
stead of the striped pole. It is a bright wash basin, of brass, with a wide 
rim, and the crescent like cut, out of one side. The city of Grenada has 
about 60,000 inhabitants, with some people of as much refinement, hos- 
pitality and good appearance as I have found in Spain. You know its 
location. The old Moorish part, the Albaycin of that time, on the de- 
clivity of the hill going down to the meeting of the Darro with its bride, 
the Xenil, and the later built portion below, which surrounds both this 
hill, and partially the Alhambra. The fortress of the Alhambra covers 
the curvatures of the mountain on which it stands, and seems to have 
been constructed with reference to it ; so that, while its length is about 
three-fourths of a mile, it breadth varies from five hundred to one thou- 
sand feet. I entered through the long groves that you have read of, by 
the nearest gate, which is to the left. This old Moorish gate and arch- 
way has been so often described that I shall not attempt a description of 
it, nor of anything else except simply my own impressions of the place. 
Upon reaching the plateau above, we found the gardens and unfinished 
palace of Charles the Fifth, standing as when he left it. The walls 
splendidly ornamented, are about forty feet high, windowless and roofless 
In the interior is a circular court surrounded by galleries. To the left 
of this building we proceed into the Palace of the Alhambra, and first 
find ourselves in the Court of Myrtles. This is an oblong space sur- 
rounded by arches and pillars, all exquisitely ornamented with arabes- 
ques. The line of myrtles overlook the long bathing pool in the centre. 
From this we proceed to the Court of Lions, so called from the large 
fountain in its centre being supported by ten or twelve stone lions. The 
pillars, one hundred and twenty-four in number, and galleries, are won- 
derful. At the right you enter the hall of Martyrs, and immediately op- 
posite, the dos Hermanas, the hall of the Two Sisters, so called from the 
two large and perfectly pure white marble slabs in the floor directly un- 
der the dome. This is the gem of the whole place, from the fact that it 
has been restored from the vandalism of the earlier Christians, and now 



43 

stands out in its beauty and gracefulness, giving a complete idea of how 
splendidly the old Moorish sultans lived, and how much they must have 
regretted its loss. No wonder they fought two hundred years for its 
possession. 

Since Irving's time, the government have gone to work in an enlight- 
ened and vigorous way, and have the whole place now in perfect order 
and cleanliness, and have employed some fine artists to restore the whole 
of the ornamentations, arabesques and the original descriptions. The 
honey-comb stalactical pendants in the cealings have been retouched by 
the pencil, and you have all the Moorish colors, gold, (yellow) red and 
blue. These conical ceilings, which are common all over the Alhambra, 
are capable of an infinite variety of combinations, and attest the wonder- 
ful power and effect obtained by the repetition of the most simple ele- 
ments. The artist informed me that over five thousand pieces entered 
into the construction of the ceiling of Las dos Hermanas alone. I visited 
the Hall of the Ambassadors ; the Sultana's bed chamber looked down 
upon the garden, the Lendaraja, so beautiful once. I spent seven short 
hours in the place. I waited behind the others to admire again the ele- 
gant architecture of the galeries, and the slim columns, which appear 
unequal to the superincumbent weight. The thin pillars, and gossamer 
perforated fabric, looked like fairy work. The masses above seem to 
hang in the air instead of being supported from below. Few airy castles 
of illusion will stand the prosaic test of reality, and nowhere less than in 
Spain, as I thought when I in vain tried to discover the famous Chateaux 
d' Espagne as I passed along and across the Giiadalquiver in coming 
here, but in the Alhambra, when the declining sunlight tips, with its 
semi-obscure, the filligree arches, a depth is given to the shadows, and a 
misty undefined magnitude to the saloons beyond, which surrenders 3 T ou, 
for the time, to the past, and to the Moor. I looked from its high tower 
over and across the Vega which is twenty by seventy miles in length. On 
the left is the Sierra, covered with snow ; opposite, and to the left, is the 
old city of Albaycin ; below, the city of Grenada, and in front the splen- 
did plains, enclosed by distant mountains, covered with white villages 
and olive groves. It is something to have seen two of the three great 
sights or views of the world — the Bay of Rio de Janeiro and the Vega 
of Grenada — in so short a time. We visited also the Generalief, the 
summer palace of the Moorish kings, which is in good repair and sur- 
rounded with gardens. It stands behind and above the Alhambra, and 
has so many objects of interest in and about it, that I cannot find a good 
place wherein to commence a description, and must therefore not at- 
tempt it. 



4:4 

We had sent down to one of the Gipsy villages on the Vega, where 
they live among the cactus, olives and aloes, to have some of their dan- 
cers come up in the eveniDg, and after dinner we went to see them. The 
Chief came up and brought six Gitanos with him, who danced the olio, 
bolero, and many of their own dances, to the music of the guitar, for an 
hour, and then we went to the opera. We found it filled with the elite 
and fashion of the city of Grenada. A dancer, very celebrated here in 
the south of Spain, led the ballet troupe, and I have rarely seen them 
equalled, never in our own country. The audience were of as much in- 
terest to me as the players. The women of Grenada, as well as those of 
Madrid, are celebrated. for their beauty and gracefulness, and here I saw 
some types of female beauty that will compare with any I have ever seen. 
The men were fine looking, well dressed and quite polite. 

This morning we spent at the Cathedral, where we found some Hue 
paintings, and also the tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella. These are in 
one of the Chapels of the vast Church. It has a rich gothic portal, 
wrought with many heraldic emblems. On two magnificent sepulchres, 
in the centre of the chapel, are extended the marble figures of these 
Catholic Sovereigns. Ferdinand and Isabella slumber side by side, life's 
fitful fever over, in the peaceful attitude of their long and happy union. 
The statue of Isabella is perfect in its carving. Her smile is as cold, and 
her look is as placid as moonlight sleeping on snow. She died, so his- 
tory states, far from Grenada, but desired to be buried here. We next 
went to the convent of the Carthusians, about two miles from the city, 
but I cannot now tell you of the splendid sacristy, with its two paintings 
by Murillo, surrounded by precious stones, of the huge doors inlaid with 
tortoise-shell, ivory and pearl, of the two immense agates near the altar, 
afoot and a half each in diameter, and so on, for my candle is out. 

H.S. S, 



45 



No. 11. 

IN MADRID-THE AMERICAN CONSULATE-CARNIVAL 
WEEK-THE ESCURIAL— ITS MANY WONDERS— THE 
PAINTINGS BY THE OLD MASTERS. 

Madrid, Feb. 14, 1866. 

I am fortunate in being in Spain during the carnival week. There 
are no Americans here except two families, and our Minister and suite. 
I understand that the Boulevards in Paris are cleared of our country- 
men now, as they have gone to Rome to see the sights there. If I have 
an opportunity I will give you a sketch of the three daj^s carnival here. 
Whatever may be seen in Rome, I doubt if it exceeds that in Madrid. 
The people here — gay, indolent, fond of amusement and show — are all 
let loose on these days, and the mummeries and masquerades are as ex- 
travagant as I wish to see. It is strange to me that none of our people 
abroad visit Spain. They all go the stereotyped guide book track, through 
England to Paris, Germany and Rome, and they think they have u gone 
and done it." This may be accounted for in part from the fact that, until 
recently, there has been no through railroad from Paris, and the repu- 
tation of the roads, on account of robbers, is bad. The frequent revolu- 
tions — creating a discontented populace and soldiery — the lack of know- 
ledge of the language, and the indisposition to leave the beaten track, 
which they must "do" at all events, have been controlling reasons also. 
But to me, this country has always been of peculiar interest, ever since 
I was old enough to read the Chronicles of the Cid, the tales of the Al- 
hambra, Gil Bias and Don Quixote. 

My introduction to our Legation, was, for some reason, very favorable, 
and I am indebted to our Minister, Hon. John P. Hale, and his family, 
for two or three pleasant evenings and for many courtesies. They are 
stopping at the same hotel for the present. The office of the Legation is 
in the Calle Alcala. Here, for about fourteen years, Horatio N. Perry, 
Esq., Secretary of Legation, has served our country well. To him and 
his amiable wife, a Spanish lady, I am under a thousand obligations. 
" Besides the trip to Grenada, Cordova, Seville, and the south of Spain 
generally, there are the city of Toledo, and the sights in this city, all of 
surpassing interest. I visited here the Congresis — the Cortes— now in 



46 

session, and listened to the exciting debates, occasioned by the recent at- 
tempts at revolution. Also the Royal Museum with its two thousand 
paintings, by Murillo, Guido, Raphael, Rubens, Claude Lorain, Michael 
Angelo, and many others ; its wonderful mosaics and sculpture, and 
other works of art. The collection of armory in the old palace is said 
to be unsurpassed in the world. Here is the armor of the Oid, of Colum- 
bus, of Ferdinand, and also of Queen Isabella, which she wore in the 
campaign against the Moors in Grenada ; also that of Boabdil the -last 
King of the Moors, and other Moorish armor ; scimitars, ancient guns, 
pistols, lances, banners, jeweled crowns and ornaments without number. 
These are all arranged in well lighted galleries, numbered and catalogued. 

I have made it a specialty to visit the cathedrals and convents, as far 
as practicable, in all the places I have been, but, as 1 am not writing a 
book, I can give but a slight glimpse of any of them in this place, and 
many must be left out altogether. They are open all day, and you can 
tread lightly around among the scattered worshippers, kneeling upon the 
pavement, without question. (And just here, in parenthesis, let me say 
by way of explanation, that in a former letter from Brazil, speaking of the 
accessibility to the Catholic Churches, I may have omitted to give credit 
to Doctor Ford's book for a paragraph. I find I have done so in looking 
over my notes, a copy of which I sent you.) Upon application to the 
Sacristan he will send an attendant, with huge keys, to open the Costodias 
Sacristias, chapels, &c, who will give all the required information. 
There is no fee, but you are expected to give the attendant a shilling or 
two for "the poor." 

Among other instances of the moral and intellectual bondage of the 
people here, is one which is an epitome of itself. In the Cathedral at 
Grenada there is upon several of the huge pillars the. following printed 
notice : " Nadle se passce liable con Mujeres in este en Corrillos Enestas 
naves per de Excommunication y dos ducados para abras pias se,, which 
means, that if any man speaks to a woman in any part of the Church he 
shall be excommunicated unless he pays two dollars ! My friend thought 
it was cheap enough for the privilege of speaking to some of the very 
pretty GranadaUnos we had seen in the churches, streets, and at the 
opera. 

There is one place, however, of which I will give you my impressions, 
at the risk of wearying the reader. The Escurial — the burial place of 
the Kings and Queens of Spain for centuries — is the greatest sight of the 
kind I have yet seen, and which no one can visit without wonder, and 
without some expansion of the mind. 



47 

In the immense palace of the Eseurial, a whole day will only afford a 
hurried visit. The stupendous edifice of the Monastery, a mountain of 
granite shaped into a palace, can hardly be seen in so short a time. You 
should make several visits to it to look out of each of its four thousand 
windows. It is about thirty miles (one hour and a half by rail) from 
Madrid, and a half league from the station. Its characteristics, as they 
seemed to me, are vast proportions, admirable harmony and unity of de- 
sign, simplicity, massiveness and grandeur. The different races who 
settled here in turn— the Romans, Goths and Arabs — were all builders, 
each after their own peculiar style. The Christians seemed to have 
adopted some ideas from them all. Here are quarries of granite and 
beautiful marble ; and, where the glorious light of the sun and stars give 
such relief to outlines, and depth to shadows, and brightness of tints, 
splendid edifices of all kinds would seem likely to abound. I will trans- 
late for you a description of the Eseurial, which I have also condensed 
somewhat. " Thispalaee was designed by Phillip II, and the first stone 
was laid in April, 1585, and was completed in 1586, twenty-one years after, 
at a cost of $3,300,000. The edifice itself, that is, without the offices, is 
a paralellogram, seven hundred and forty-four feet long by five hundred 
and eighty broad. It is of the Doric order, and made entirely from the 
marble and granite of the quarries in the vicinity. From its angles and 
centre spring eight towers, about two hundred feet high, and crowned by 
the cupola of the church. Every thing in the edifice is on a colossal 
scale. Suffice it to state, that there are sixteen courts, forty altars, one 
thousand two hundred doors, eighty-six staircases, three thousand feet 
of fresco painting, eighty-nine fountains, etc. The church, inside, is all 
granite, three hundred and twenty feet long. The form resembles a Greek 
Cross. The pulpits are made of alabaster, and the richest marbles, orna- 
mented with medallions. The altar stands isolated, and is made of mar- 
bles and inlaid jasper, with a jasper stone of one whole piece." And so 
I might go on until you got as tired out as I was. The multitude of 
paintings, and the excessive ornamentation become wearisome, after a 
time. The pictures in the retablo, which is about one hundred feet high 
and composed of red granite and jasper, deserve close inspection. The 
guide said there were about seven hundred relics, among which are ten 
whole bodied, one hundred and fifty heads, and about double that num- 
ber of whole arms and legs. On the right of the altar, in the oratorio, 
are five statues, those of Charles V, the Empress Isabella, Phillip II, 
Phillip III, and the Queen Maria. These are said to be portraits, and 
are very remarkable for their execution, especially in the details of the 
embroider}'. In the Sacrist la are very many fine paintings : — Jacub 



48 

watching Labans flock, by Ribera ; a Transfiguration, by Raphael ; Christ 
washing the Apostles' feet, by Tintoretto. This last picture was painted 
for Charles I, of England, but was afterwards purchased by Phillip IV, 
of Spain. No. 81 on the catalogue is Jesus bearing the Cross, by Guido, 
and 88 a Crucifixion, by Titian, both wonderful. These you must see 
when you come here, and also No. 81, a large painting by Claudio, who, 
after seven years labor, made it his masterpiece. The subject is the cer- 
emony which took place in this very sacristia in the presence of Charles 
II. All the heads are portraits. It is a very fine large picture, full of 
expressiveness from its numerous figures, and forms a page of history 
worth volumes. You will find a copy of it in the Madrid picture gallery. 
You will see some specimens of fine embroidery, for which Spain has 
always been celebrated. There is one vestment embroidered after de- 
signs by El Mudo, which is said to be valued at £45,000. 

The Camarin was erected in 1(592 — so says the inscription. It stands 
in one of the inside court yards. There is a glorious collection here of 
precious marbles, which must certainly be unrivalled, There is a cus- 
todia containing above ten thousand precious stones — quite tiresome to 
look at without the privilege of handling. There is a fine old folio, 
written by some ancient monk, containing about twenty beautiful minia- 
tures, done up by the great miniaturists of the time, whose names are 
all there. In the delcoro, or choir, are kept some collossal choral books, 
some of them six feet wide, each leaf made from the skin of a calf. The 
style of letter is singular — at least, to me. They are all magnificently 
illuminated. There is a little stall here, simple but elegant and well 
carved, made of ebony, cedar, box and other woods. The story on the 
inscription is that Phillip II, the founder, was here kneeling in prayer, 
when, through the small door to the left, a messenger glided in, bearing 
the news of the destruction of the Armada, in the English channel. 
"His countenance remained impassible, and he resumed his prayers." 
So says the Spanish chronicle. The gem of this choir is the beautiful 
Carrera marble crucifix. It was made by Cellini, and is labelled "Ben- 
venutus Cellinus, 1562." The great Florentine carved it for the Duke 
of Tuscany, by whom it was presented to Phillip II. This, with a bit of 
curious autobiography, is worth translating. He says : " Although I 
have made several marble statues, I shall only mention one, from its 
being of a kind most difficult for art to render — that is, dead bodies. I 
speak of the image of our Lord crucified, for which I studied a great 
deal, working upon it with a diligence and love that so precious a simu- 
lacre deserves ; and also because I knew myself to be the first who ever 
executed crucifixes in marble." From the choir you descend a few mar- 



49 

ble steps and come into the panteon. These vaults were built at different 
periods, by Phillip II, III and IY. I don't like this place ; there is an 
icy blast of death, which, with the sombre darkness and ironical gild- 
ing of bones, seems oppressive amid the shining marbles. There is no- 
thing of the feelings that fill the soul and mind in the presence of the 
truly christian and beautiful tombs in some of the Medieval Cathedrals 
I have visited, with their sculptured effigies, praying or asleep. This 
name of Panteon is pagan, although it was completed in 1654, according 
to the inscription. Over the portal is the history of its erection. "Locus 
sacer mortalibus Exuviis, 1 '' etc. At the sides are Roman allegorical 
statues. All around the octagonal chamber, which, I should think, was 
about forty feet high, and the same across it, are placed in rows, within 
nitches, a number of marble urns, identically sized, and not unlike an 
anatomical collection. The kings are placed on the right of the altar, for 
you must bear in mind that now you are in the Escurial, the burial place, 
as I said before, of the Kings and Queens of Spain for centuries. The 
Queens are on the left as you enter. There are wanting Ferdinand and 
Isabella, whose tombs and effigies I saw in Granada. 

In the Convent you find some very fine pictures. One is, Noah intox- 
icated, by Giadano. The Satyrs, by the same, is very good. St. Mar- 
guerite, by Titian ; also, St. JeromePraying, and the Prayer on Olivet, 
by the same. Flowers by Bassano, originally belonging to Charles I, of 
England. A copy of Titian's Ecce Homo, by El Mudo. 

The palace is placed in an angle of the edifice. The principal staircase 
is a wonder of art. The walls of the rooms we visited are hung with 
tapestry, many of which were made in Flanders, from designs by Teniers, 
and others from the Fabrica of Madrid. Phillip II's own room is almost 
a cell, very plain, There are but few remains of furniture dating of that 
time. In the sala battalias, so called from the frescoes on the wall re- 
presenting great battles and sieges, one fresco dates 1587, and was copied, 
so it says, by order of Phillip, from a chiara-oscuro canvass some one 
hundred and thirty feet long, found in a lumber room in the Alcazar of 
Segovia. I should think it very important to artists, and others, on ac- 
count of the costume, arms, and military disposition of troops in those 
times. There are rooms also in this building, richly ornamented with 
inlaid wood. Four of the rooms, created in Charles IV's time, are said 
to have cost £280,000. They are labelled piezas de maderas firms." There 
are manypictures here — a Virgin by Cano, a view of Venice, and others 
by Velasquez, Giordan and Carracci. 

In the Casita del Principe there are some good specimens of marquetry, 
and ivory work, worthy of Chinese patience, even ; jaspers and gilding, 
faded silks and furniture. 



50 

The view from the towers of the Escurial embraces extensive but 
melancholy wastes, with a railroad running close by this monument of 
by-gone ages, in whose cold granite bosom sleep the mighty representa- 
tives of the genius, power, grandeur and backwardness of their age. It 
is the grandest and gloomiest place I have yet seen. 

H. S. S. 



No. 12. 

A LAST LOOK AT MADRID— THE ROYAL STABLES—THE 
PICTURE GALLERIES-THE MUSEUM— THE PRADO- 
MADRID TO PARIS-THE FRENCH CAPITAL— LONDON- 
COMING HOME. 

London, Feb. 20, 1866. 

Before leaving Madrid I went to the old buildings of the Inquisition. 
They have no particular outside appearance differing from thousands of 
other old buildings in the city. As I stood in the dungeons, where so 
much suffering had been caused by the spirit of error, I could not help 
thinking how much of the animus of the Inquisition still lives among the 
bigoted of all nations, and especially here, where no Cortes or Constitu- 
tion ever permits any approach to religious toleration. I am told that 
many here believe, that in the changes and chances of Spain it may be 
re-established ; hence you will find no one who will converse with you 
on the subject ; sons of burnt fathers, they dread the fire. 

The stranger, in going about Madrid for the first time, should take a 
lacquai de place, or guide, as many places, and especially the chief lions, 
can only be visited on certain days, and at certain hours. There is a 
class of guides here, called Rock-Scorpions — Gibraltar bred Spaniards 
—who speak English. I had one at Grenada, and found him thoroughly 
well posted and very useful. You need them but once, as you soon get 
posted yourself. I visited the Royal Stables, with their three hundred 
and twenty horses and two hundred and forty mules; there are some of 
the finest breeds of horses in the world here. The Andalusian breed is 
celebrated. I have seen a better average class of horses in Spain than 



51 

in any other country I have been in. In these stables are some Arabian 
mares of great beauty, also some English mares, some minute ponies be- 
longing to the little Prince of the Asturias, and a great variety of mules. 
The Royal carriages, about one hundred and twenty-five in number, are 
ranged along side by side in an extensive building. Here are some state 
carriages dating three hundred years back, and so along, showing all the 
different fashions and improvements to the present time ; they were, 
most of them, made either in France or England, and are all very elabo- 
rately ornamented with tortoise shell panels, gold, ivory and pearl. 

On opening them I saw some beautiful specimens of embroidery, with 
linings of cloth of silver and gold. 

I made one more visit to the Royal Museum, to see, especially, two or 
three paintings— one, the Transfiguration, by Murillo, and two by Claude 
Lorraine. The first had haunted me ever since I first saw it ; it does so 
now, and always will. Ford says, in his description of this Museum : 
u To give a general idea of the extraordinary contents of this, the finest 
gallery in the world, suffice it to say, that there are twenty-five Bassanos, 
ten Claudes, twenty-two Vandyks, sixteen Gruidos, forty-six by Mu- 
rillo, ten by Raphael, fifty-three by Ribera, sixty-two by Rubens, fifty- 
two by Teniers, forty-three by Titian, twenty-seven by Tintoretto, sixty- 
two by Velasquez, twenty-four by Paul Veronese, fourteen by Zurbaran, 
and several hundreds by the other eminent artists of their day. No 
collection of pictures was ever begun or continued under greater advan- 
tage. Charles V and Phillip II, both real patrons of art, were the lead- 
ing sovereigns of Europe during the bright period of the Renaissance, 
when fine art was an every day necessity, and pervaded every relation of 
life. Again Phillip IV ruled at Naples and in the Low Countries, at 
the second restoration of art, which he truly loved for itself. These 
three great Monarchs, like Alexander the Great, took a pleasure in rais- 
iug their painters to personal intimacy ; and nowhere have artists been 
more highly honored than Titian, Velasquez and Rubens were in the 
Palace of Madrid. At a later period, Phillip V, grandson of Louis 
XIV, added many pictures by the principal French artists of their Au- 
gustan age." 

Not much can bo seen in the short time I devoted to it, but I have a 
well defined consciousness that I have seen something I shall always 
remember. As for giving you my " impressions," that is quite out of the 
question. I came as a pilgrim to this temple of High Art, and bowed 
low at its shrine, a simple worshipper, and I confess that no language of 
mine can describe what I felt. I can readily see why art is considered 
the handmaid of religion, and why, in all these countries, the altar is as- 



52 

sociated with all painting of a high class. In going through the crowded 
halls of this museum, filled with the mighty spirits of the past, passing 
those acres of canvass, it seems as if a year were too short to examine 
its contents ; but soon, the masses begin to simplify themselves, and we 
select such as we like by instinct, as it were, and confine ourselves to them. 
Picture seeing is, however, very fatiguing, for one is standing all the 
while, and with the body, the mind is also at exercise, and is exhausted 
by admiration. The mosaics in this museum are strange and new to me. 
There are several lapis lazuli tables, one of which cost $90,000. The tops 
are laid in mosaic of various designs. 

There is here, also, a superb collection of goldsmith work of the Fif- 
teenth Century, of above a hundred cups, tazzas and exquisite jeweled 
plate, by Celini, D'Arphes, Beceriles and others. Among them, I no- 
ticed particularly a mermaid, with emerald tail, rising out of gold, stud- 
ded with rubies, by Cellini, and a cup supported by a female. But I must 
be moving on, which, by the way, seems to have been the order of the 
day ever since I started from home. I visited the Convent ofAtocha. 
In the chapel is the celebrated image of the Virgin, the patroness of 
Madrid, and the especial protectress of the royal family, who worship 
here every Saturday. Here the royal marriages take place, and, when 
a Queen is in^the case, her wedding dress becomes a perquisite of this 
Virgin. The present Queen, Isabella II, was on her way to this shrine 
when she was stabbed by Merino, some years since. The dress, with 
the dagger hole in it, is there. There are numerous chronicles of the 
miracles wrought by this Virgin. One author gives thirty-three pages 
to them. It expelled a devil from a boy named Bias, (I wonder if it was 
G-il ?) It gave speech to a dumb beggar, who then distinctly (and quite 
naturally) said "Dime un ciiarto" 1 — Grive me a copper — and many others 

The Prado, or promenade, from three to six every afternoon, presents 
a gay appearance, and a very unique one to a stranger. It runs across 
the Calle Alcala, the Superior street of Madrid, is two miles in length, 
and two hundred feet wide. There are two parallel roads for drives, and 
three wide promenade walks. These walks and drives are separated by 
shade trees. Many of the principal fc public buildings and dwellings, line 
it on either side. There are eight fountains with elaborate sculptured 
figures. Those of Neptune, Apollo and Cybele, are very fine, but these 
stDny things count as nothing when compared to the living groups of all 
ages, color and costume, which walk'and talk, oggle or nod, or sit and 
smoke, It is just the place to study costume and manners. Ninety- nine 
out of every hundred smoke, and little Murillo-like urchins run about 
with lighted rope ends or matches, crying out " candela" "fuego" on 



53 

every side, while Agnadores follow the fire, like engines, offering fresh 
water. 

During the carnival, which lasts four days, the usual custom is to com- 
mence the great procession of carriages at 3 P. M. This forms at the 
Queens Palace, and, passing through the city for about a mile, stretches 
along the Prado, in single file, and at a walk. 

As the line passed down by the hotel the other day, I went out accom- 
panied by a friend, who has lived here long, and we walked up and down 
the length of the Prado. It was crowded with maskers oj all descriptions 
—some utterlv indescribable. 

The long procession of carriages just filled up the four mile circuit. 
Some of their occupants were in masks, and very many were not, Alto- 
gether there were several thousands out, and the scene was gay and odd 
enough. 

We went to the opera at 8, and to the masquerade ball at 11 P. M. The 
latter is an ''institution" here. T got tired, finally, and leaving my com- 
panions went back to the hotel. 

In this brief sketch I give but little of what I saw in Madrid. What 
I have to say of other places must be briefer still. We took leave of our 
kind friends — looked after our passports — packed up, with our trunks, 
many pleasant memories of the past few days — and took our tickets for 
Paris. 

The distance from Madrid to Paris is nine hundred English miles — 
time forty hours. There are about seventy stations on the route. The 
first of any importance is Valladolid, the Roman Pincia, with its twenty 
thousand inhabitants. It is celebrated for many sieges and battles ; also 
as the birth place of Phillip II, in 1527, and is the place where Columbus 
died in 1508. We pass through a portion of the province of Salamanca' 
through the cities of Burgos, Vittoria, Tolosa, and come to the Bay of 
Biscay at San Sebastiani, passing in the meantime through many tunnels 
and over heavy grades as,, we cross through the Pyrenees. The towns and 
cities have a tumbledown, non-improvement appearance. There are large 
fields of wheat and groves of fruit trees. The grape vine is everywhere 
and the olive tree spreads over the plains and along up the distant moun- 
tain sides in endless profusion. The forest trees have gone long ago ; fuel 
and timber for domestic purposes, therefore, are very dear. 

From St. Sebastiani to Irun the time is about one hour. From Irun 
across the frontier into France, to Hidaye, just five minutes. Here we 
are in another world, almost. The houses, people, fields, everything, are 
changed in a moment, and we see the neat, trim peasantry, and the well 
cultivated fields and pretty flower-gardens of the south of France. The 



54 

railroad all the way through is well built and managed. The first class 
cars are very comfortable, and luxuriously furnished. The Buffets, or 
dining places, are very good, and everything is neat and cleanly. We 
passed through Bayonne and Bordeaux, Tours and Orleans, to Paris, 
where we took our observations and our soup at the Grand Hotel, Boule- 
vard Capucines. Every one knows all about Paris. To me it seemed a 
gay, white, light and bright city, in its general effect. The houses are 
principally composed of shutters and windows. The goods in the shops 
are tastefully and effectively laid out, and the bonnes on the benches wear 
such an amount of linen on their heads as would render themundistin- 
guishable in a snow storm. The costumes of the women are, some pleas- 
ing, and some singular, and some of them both. The majority of them 
look like Little Bed Biding Hood, with a difference of color. There is 
the Blue Biding Hood, the .yellow, green and white, and sometimes the 
Black Satin Biding Hood, although she is at the Opera. Ladies past the 
age of thirty have evidently a strong passion for mustachios, for they 
wear them frequently on their own lips. The good folks upon the Bou- 
levards walk slowly and chatter rapidly. Their conversation, not under- 
standing it, reminds me considerably of seltzer water — it is so effervescent, 
vapid and colorless. They seem to pump it out of themselves with an 
action of the arm, very suggestive of the syphon. 

The stranger cannot help noticing the immense improvements going on 
in Paris. Whole squares are taken down and rebuilt, and the streets are 
being widened and improved. Among other things, the old stone bould- 
ers have been taken up and Asphaltum pavement put in their place in 
most of the streets. The little joker who presides over the nation, after 
this was done, bending his nose slightly to meet the tip of his thumb, and 
waving his fingers gracefully in the soft air, says u My dear little children* 
we shan't have any more of those ugly barricades. Not any for me, mon 
enfants, if you please !" 

I visited most of the places of interest here. Went to the churches of 
St. Grermain-l'Auxerrois, Notre Dame, St. Eustache, Madelaine and 
others. I attended the opera, theatres, and other places of public amuse- 
ments—looked in at La Morgue, the dead house, where three "unfortu- 
nates" who had been taken out of the Seine, were waiting for their friends 
to claim them. I spent a whole day in the gallery of the Louvre. 

As there was not much more to be done, I left for London by the Ca- 
lais and Dover route — time eleven hours. I met some friendly natives 
of ours, en route, and we have concluded to brave the storms of the March 
Atlantic together. If they are not too heavy, I shall be with you almost 
as soon as this letter. Here, I have been trying the underground rail- 



55 

road, looking into the Omnibus system, which is a good one, visiting 
churches, palaces, museums, operas, theatres, and other places, until I 
went (very naturally) to prison. Old Newgate has Jack Shepard's irons, 
also those of Dick Turpin, and many other relics of by-gone rascality, 
showing how little human nature changes with the centuries. 

I might tell you much more about Paris and London, butl had rather 
send you a guide book with maps and illustrations, than attempt it, as 
my time is short and "I want to go home." I stop one day in Liverpool, 
and our steamer remains nearly a day at Cork, then for the Atlantic, Cape 
Race and New York harbor. H. S. S. 



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